Just bought an Unknown Model Philco Tombstone

[vortalexfan]

Hello everyone, tonight I just bought locally from Facebook Marketplace an unknown model Philco Multiband Tombtone radio that the cabinet is in pretty decent shape yet (although the finish could use a refresh with some Howard's Restore-A-Finish), that electrically is in unknown condition (although the owner claims it works as is, but I'm not going to trust someone's arbitrary opinion on the working condition of an 80+ year old Tombstone radio), it also appears to have Philco's famous "Shadow Meter" Tuning Meter, which I've always wanted one of those types of Philco radios but could never find one at a resonable price (they were usually at antique malls and where in unknown electrical condition and they usually wanted over $100 for them even though they were in unknown working working condition).

I'm going to be picking the radio up tomorrow afternoon, and I will be paying $75 for the radio.

I'm just curious as to whether or not anyone on here knows the model of the radio and whether or not I scored on this radio or not.

I'm planning on doing a complete electrical restore/alignment of the radio and refreshment of the cabinet's original finish.

Pictures of the radio in question posted below.

[vortalexfan]

UPDATE: OK so after a little research and looking through pictures on the Philco Phorum's Philco Radio Gallery, I have figured out that the radio I've bought is a 1936 Philco Model 116B Multiband "Baby Grand" Tombstone Radio with a Shadow Meter Tuning Meter built-in (which on the one I'm getting, the dial bezel/glass is on upside down as the shadow meter lense is facing down instead of up like its supposed to).

Any information on this radio besides what they have at the Philco Phorum (which is not much information)?

[Titan1a]

Sure looks like it. I have one but with the console chassis. This was the last of an era. 11 tubes using a standard type chassis layout. 10 watts of push-pull output power. Probably the best radio of it's type ever made! With a good antenna, this radio outperforms any other radio in it's class. Included was long-wave reception (marked weather). Mine is undergoing updating and clean-up. My cabinet was already refinished. It's BIG and HEAVY. There will never be another made like it!

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Titan1a

Sure looks like it. I have one but with the console chassis. This was the last of an era. 11 tubes using a standard type chassis layout. 10 watts of push-pull output power. Probably the best radio of it's type ever made! With a good antenna, this radio outperforms any other radio in it's class. Included was long-wave reception (marked weather). Mine is undergoing updating and clean-up. My cabinet was already refinished. It's BIG and HEAVY. There will never be another made like it!

Sweet, it sounds like I scored a good unit.

[Gregb]

I just recently finished the chassis restoration on mine and it is a very good performer.

Gregb

[fixmeplease]

Nice find! Im never scared getting a Philco as advice is easily obtained if needed.

I enjoy radios made in 1936. By then they had improved the parts a lot and caps had gotten smaller but had not started adding crap that wasnt needed. The year (1936) varies by make of course but it seems to mostly hold true. By 1940 they were getting crazy with push buttons and moved away from tombstone designs. Always modernizing them to compete with styles but often harder to work on. Thats just my opinion of course. That and $1 will get you a can of Pepsi.

[Electronic M]

It is pretty rare to find a tombstone or cathedral that isn't missing pieces, painted a stupid color, or experiencing cabinet rot for under a C-note here.

You have the last of that sets kind and I have the first of it's kind...a Philco 16B with some significant cabinet issues that I need to get to before I bother with the chassis.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

It is pretty rare to find a tombstone or cathedral that isn't missing pieces, painted a stupid color, or experiencing cabinet rot for under a C-note here.

You have the last of that sets kind and I have the first of it's kind...a Philco 16B with some significant cabinet issues that I need to get to before I bother with the chassis.

Well mine seems to be all there except the original tube placement chart is missing from inside the cabinet, and it also seems to be missing 3 tube shields, also it seems like the power switch was bypassed on this radio at one point in time as the radio just powers on when the radio is plugged into the wall even with the power switch/volume control knob turned to the off position, and when you turn the power switch on it doesn't do anything with the radio, which is weird.

Also I need some information on how to repair the shadow meter, and also how to properly deal with the bakelite capacitor blocks as far as restuffing them with modern caps goes.

[mr_rye89]

Has the same dial window/escutcheon as my Model 624, Def a '36 model.

One way to deal with the Bakelite blocks is to heat up the tar to soften it and either gouge it out with a screwdriver, or you can sometimes push it out from the top (thru one of the little solder eyelets) with a small screwdriver.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

You have the last of that sets kind and I have the first of it's kind...a Philco 16B with some significant cabinet issues that I need to get to before I bother with the chassis.

Apparently Philco used 16B on two different Radios judging by the thread you found.
This is my model: .http://www.tuberadioland.com/philco1...tone_main.html

Personally don't like to encourage using polyurethane since stripping products usually don't work on it and you have to sand it off (which can mean sanding through veneer)... If you don't dent or break the wood with lacquer you can avoid sanding and if you never sand you never wear through the veneer which means owners in the future can refinish it the same way as many times as as needed in future centuries. Lacquer is the original and correct material and IMO the most maintainable option.

The block caps are fairly easy to rebuild and there are resources online that allow you to look up the caps and resistors contained along with pinout. I can chip most of the tar out (don't need it squeaky clean and also don't need to refill the block with tar since nobody will see it) along with the old cap foil roll out in under a minute with a screwdriver. Then it is easy to hide a new cap in the block and have the recaped chassis look bone stock. Some of theses philcos go from dead or near dead to perfect with just the block caps changed (definitely do the filters too for safety).

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Apparently Philco used 16B on two different Radios judging by the thread you found.
This is my model: .http://www.tuberadioland.com/philco1...tone_main.html

Personally don't like to encourage using polyurethane since stripping products usually don't work on it and you have to sand it off (which can mean sanding through veneer)... If you don't dent or break the wood with lacquer you can avoid sanding and if you never sand you never wear through the veneer which means owners in the future can refinish it the same way as many times as as needed in future centuries. Lacquer is the original and correct material and IMO the most maintainable option.

The block caps are fairly easy to rebuild and there are resources online that allow you to look up the caps and resistors contained along with pinout. I can chip most of the tar out (don't need it squeaky clean and also don't need to refill the block with tar since nobody will see it) along with the old cap foil roll out in under a minute with a screwdriver. Then it is easy to hide a new cap in the block and have the recaped chassis look bone stock. Some of theses philcos go from dead or near dead to perfect with just the block caps changed (definitely do the filters too for safety).

The only reason why I would use polyeurathane on these is because my mom suggested it because she said laquer is much nastier to use and harder to get off you if you get it on yourself and is also much nastier smelling.
but I will try to see if I can use some laquer on this unit when I'm redoing the cabinet on it.

what kind of laquer do you suggest I use?

And obviously I won't be able to get to refinishing the cabinet on this radio until the spring because its almost winter and the temperatures outside aren't conducive to varnishing.

[Titan1a]

There are internet articles on repairing the shadow meter. There are people who repair this for a reasonable fee. Lastly, occasionally you can find parts on ebay. Getting the meter situated on your radio maybe difficult but not impossible: I found one for my "rare" 37-665B which I'm using now.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Titan1a

There are internet articles on repairing the shadow meter. There are people who repair this for a reasonable fee. Lastly, occasionally you can find parts on ebay. Getting the meter situated on your radio maybe difficult but not impossible: I found one for my "rare" 37-665B which I'm using now.

Well i just tested out the radio and the tuner is completely dead, no signals being pulled in whatsoever on any of the bands, not even on the broadcast (AM) band, and it seems I may need a replacement volume control/power switch because my power switch is stuck in the on position for some reason, and I can't seem to get it to work properly, and I don't know where I would source a replacement switch for this thing.

[Sandy G]

I have no doubt that you will be able to get this Bad Boi singing sweetly....

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Sandy G

I have no doubt that you will be able to get this Bad Boi singing sweetly....

Thanks for the encouraging words, I do hope to get this radio up and running, because this would be the highlight of my collection.