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  #31  
Old 02-26-2011, 12:28 PM
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what schematic do you have? can you scan a copy of it and email it?
The one I got out of riders don't list any voltages.
yea it's a wire wound mounted near the middle coil. the one lead coming from the coil hooks on it. There's one on the bottom side but that one looks like it has been untouched.
I still have to check the coils, they look good but will check anyway.
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  #32  
Old 02-26-2011, 01:04 PM
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Not understanding what this..resistor, I guess? ... is doing there. Does it have continuity? Can you point out where it would be on the attached PDF from NostalgiaAir, model E?

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByM...0/M0017930.pdf
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  #33  
Old 02-26-2011, 01:38 PM
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Same diagram I got...how the hell do you read that???
Checked the coils, all seem ok. grid resistor read 5.3 to 7.6 m-ohms, so I put a resistor in there. Detector socket, from B- to one small pin I get 1.5 volts, to the other small pin 132 volts. I don't know which is plate or grid.
Picture is attached of the wire wound. Do I have to hook up the C power? With the current tubes in it the owners manual says not.

Last edited by stusnyder; 03-14-2015 at 10:01 PM.
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  #34  
Old 02-26-2011, 06:04 PM
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The top diagram from NostalgiaAir is for Silvertone model E which you say you have. On some of those early diagrams they did not show the circle of the tube envelope around the filament/grid/plate. This makes it hard for us "modern" folks to read sometimes.

Looking at the underchassis view of all of these 4-pin triodes, with the large pins at the bottom, first large pin on the left is number one. Going around the circle clockwise you have 2, 3, and finally No. 4, the other large pin. The large pins are the filament. No. 2 is the plate, and No. 3 is the grid. On No. 2 on the detector you should be getting 40-43 volts or so.

Looking at the schematic again, IF your radio is wired that way, I now see that unless C batteries are connected, the grids of the audio tubes are left floating and the radio could not work. Try this: connect three AA cells in series. You can either use a cell holder or solder short leads onto the cells to connect them. Connect as shown to the radio. You'll have 3 volts negative for the first two audio tubes, and 4.5 volts negative for the output tube.

Edit: cannot tell where in the circuit that funky resistor is connected. Can you point it out on the diagram??


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Last edited by Reece; 02-26-2011 at 08:16 PM.
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  #35  
Old 02-26-2011, 08:30 PM
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The more I look at this, the more screwed up it is. Whoever had it before me really messed it up. If it was a unmolested radio when I got it, I'm sure I would have it going by now.
Somebody prior replaced the original harness, did not color code it, used yellow and reds and with a sharpie made black lines on the wires. Can not totally decifer it.
The speaker connections, 1 post comes off a transformer. The other post, had been messed with, has a red wire with black line and is suppose to go to 135 volts B side????? Plus all this is mounted on a non - conductive surface, so basicly the said speaker post goes no place but to +135. The schematic does not even show a speaker on it. The only thing I'm 100% positive of is I got the A circut correct. The only way I can get this thing going is a very detailed schematic or photo's of a unmolested one. So I guess I'll put it back in the cabinet and shelf it.
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  #36  
Old 02-27-2011, 06:42 AM
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In the NostalgiaAir schematic, the speaker connections would be the two that look like headphones in the upper right corner. The speaker goes between the plate of the output tube and 135 volts. No transformer involved. Maybe they were going to use a modern PM speaker which would need an output transformer. Sending you a private message.
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  #37  
Old 02-27-2011, 08:09 AM
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hey reese, maybe if you could "redraw" that schematic with some more detail and scan it I coud figure it out.
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  #38  
Old 02-27-2011, 09:38 AM
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I partially redrew the schematic.

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  #39  
Old 02-27-2011, 02:19 PM
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Thanks reese...I'll compair it later. I already see some stuff thats different....
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