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  #16  
Old 03-29-2014, 09:54 AM
kvflyer kvflyer is offline
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BTW as we all know, BRASSO has changed its USA formula. I think the old stuff is still being manufactured in Canada. I was recently in Melbourne, Australia and saw BRASSO in Leo's Grocery Store. It was a round can and smelled like the old stuff. It costs about AUD$9. I have an unopened Canada can so I didn't bring any home. Just a suggestion for our Australian members (Down_Under comes to mind ).
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  #17  
Old 04-01-2014, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kvflyer View Post
BTW as we all know, BRASSO has changed its USA formula. I think the old stuff is still being manufactured in Canada. I was recently in Melbourne, Australia and saw BRASSO in Leo's Grocery Store. It was a round can and smelled like the old stuff. It costs about AUD$9. I have an unopened Canada can so I didn't bring any home. Just a suggestion for our Australian members (Down_Under comes to mind ).
If you need a really good polish, try MAAS from Germany. It's a bit expensive, but worth it. It works great on brass and many other metals. A little goes a long way and you don't have to deal with the residue left by products like Brasso.
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  #18  
Old 04-02-2014, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Telecruiser View Post
If you need a really good polish, try MAAS from Germany. It's a bit expensive, but worth it. It works great on brass and many other metals. A little goes a long way and you don't have to deal with the residue left by products like Brasso.
Thanks for the tip. Will try it.
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  #19  
Old 04-02-2014, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Telecruiser View Post
If you need a really good polish, try MAAS from Germany. It's a bit expensive, but worth it. It works great on brass and many other metals. A little goes a long way and you don't have to deal with the residue left by products like Brasso.
There is (was?) another German-made polish, Happich Simichrome, that smells like it will work too. I use it to clean the chrome trim on my 69 Pontiac.
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  #20  
Old 04-02-2014, 04:56 PM
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There is (was?) another German-made polish, Happich Simichrome, that smells like it will work too. I use it to clean the chrome trim on my 69 Pontiac.
Pontiac what...?
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  #21  
Old 04-03-2014, 12:15 AM
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Big thumbs up for Simichrome. Not only for brass - it also does a great job on bakelite.
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  #22  
Old 04-15-2014, 09:34 AM
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Well the nice weather has tempted me to spend more time outside than in the basement the past week or two. However I have gotten some work done on the Admiral Telebar set.

The radio has been recapped and reassembled. Ready to plug into the TV chassis for the first power up attempt (whenever that may be).

I also completed the turntable restore last night. Last step was to re-flock the platter. Used a fine wire wheel brush on a drill to remove the old flock and adhesive. Then brushed on the new adhesive and sprayed on new flock. Came out really nice actually. More like a felt finish now. Not as fuzzy as the original because the flock was not electro-statically charged when applied. But I think it looks fine. Whole job took only 15 minutes.

I also have been collecting period bar items for the set too.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Turntable platter stripped down.jpg (43.9 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg Reflocked turntable.jpg (71.9 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg Bar items.jpg (54.4 KB, 25 views)
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  #23  
Old 04-15-2014, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Telecruiser View Post
If you need a really good polish, try MAAS from Germany. It's a bit expensive, but worth it. It works great on brass and many other metals. A little goes a long way and you don't have to deal with the residue left by products like Brasso.
I second the MAAS recommendation. I restore vintage brass instruments (Conn and Benge mostly, plus the occasional pre-war Committee) and this is hands down the best polish for brass out there, and the only polish I'll buy. I play a '41 Conn 22B and a '49 Committee, both in raw brass, almost daily and I haven't had to buff either out in over two years. They still look great despite the heavy handling.

Last edited by benman94; 04-15-2014 at 10:24 AM. Reason: Typo
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  #24  
Old 04-15-2014, 11:34 PM
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A little more work done tonight.

First, finished installing the picture glass and picture tube bezel around the glass.

Second, tested the picture tube. 20DP4 tests STRONG!!!! Love it.

Third, installed the gold speaker cloth finally (my wife liked it better than the black). I saved the black cloth and can swap anytime I want.

Last, tested the 3 resistors in the deflection yoke while I had it off the crt neck cleaning everything. Resistors need to be replaced. Should I do the mica cap too while I am in there?

Time for bed!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg image (3).jpg (56.2 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg image.jpg (71.6 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg image (1).jpg (80.3 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg image (2).jpg (53.5 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg image (4).jpg (67.8 KB, 17 views)
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  #25  
Old 04-16-2014, 03:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kvflyer View Post
BTW as we all know, BRASSO has changed its USA formula. I think the old stuff is still being manufactured in Canada. I was recently in Melbourne, Australia and saw BRASSO in Leo's Grocery Store. It was a round can and smelled like the old stuff. It costs about AUD$9. I have an unopened Canada can so I didn't bring any home. Just a suggestion for our Australian members (Down_Under comes to mind ).
Thanks kvflyer, I'll keep that in mind! I use Brasso quite often. Maybe I should buy a case of the stuff before the formula changes over here too!
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  #26  
Old 04-17-2014, 08:58 AM
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The jigsaw puzzle is ALMOST done. I have run out of most parts and everything has gone together nicely. Only thing left on assembly is to wire and install the speaker. Do not have the original speaker chassis plug, so going to have to improvise something over the next few days. Thinking bullet connectors may work. Although the two holes in the socket are different sizes. Radio and turntable are ready to go! Once the speaker is in and the deflection yoke resistors are replaced, time to turn full attention to the TV chassis inspection, restore and then a power up. Maybe by next weekend . . .
Attached Images
File Type: jpg image5.jpg (78.2 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg image1.jpg (73.9 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg image4.jpg (54.1 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg image2.jpg (61.3 KB, 13 views)
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  #27  
Old 04-17-2014, 09:17 AM
kvflyer kvflyer is offline
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I have a soft spot in my heart for early 50s Admiral sets. Our first TV was an Admiral in 1951. And as a teenager, I was given a model 26R12. It as well as the 1951 Admiral went to the dump over the years. But now I have another 26R12 that I restored (it worked when I got it!).

Looks nice and that CRT is in great shape... and Aluminized!

Good on 'ya Mate.
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  #28  
Old 04-17-2014, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kvflyer View Post
I have a soft spot in my heart for early 50s Admiral sets. Our first TV was an Admiral in 1951. And as a teenager, I was given a model 26R12. It as well as the 1951 Admiral went to the dump over the years. But now I have another 26R12 that I restored (it worked when I got it!).

Looks nice and that CRT is in great shape... and Aluminized!

Good on 'ya Mate.
Thanks. Seems I like the early 50's Admirals too. I have a 21K1 console that has been my daily driver for a year now. Tim (Kamakiri) found it in Buffalo and recapped it. Then I found a better testing CRT for it, replaced all the resistors and tweaked the heck out of it. I have put hundreds of hours on it this last year and it is a WONDERFUL performer. I was thinking that if the Telebar performs as well (at least the TV) I would maybe sell the 21K1, but I dunno?!?!? It has worked its way into me heart as a lot of these sets do. Especially since this was my first working vintage set.
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File Type: jpg photo.jpg (54.6 KB, 25 views)
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  #29  
Old 04-18-2014, 09:06 PM
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DuMont 108 dial plastic installed . . .
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File Type: jpg DuMont Dial 1.jpg (68.8 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg DuMont Dial 2.jpg (66.5 KB, 26 views)
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  #30  
Old 04-22-2014, 09:05 PM
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Finally under the Telebar chassis. All the electrolytic and bypass caps have been replaced. Electrolytic caps are all terminal mounted under the chassis. Job is very neatly done as far as I can tell. Half dozen resistors replaced as well. There are two candohm resistors in the set. A single value one which tests fine. Then a double value one which is open for both values. So that will need to be replaced. Missing about half the tubes for the set, hopefully I have most of them in my stash.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg photo 1.jpg (93.8 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg photo 2.jpg (69.5 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg photo 3.jpg (99.2 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg photo 4.jpg (104.3 KB, 8 views)
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Last edited by bigaudioal; 04-23-2014 at 02:45 PM.
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