CTC10 Finally a failure

[Findm-Keepm]

Originally Posted by Tom S

Well I thought I got every cap. Guess I missed one.. Dammit. I put a terminal strip and left the old caps in place. All unwired of course. Missed 2 sections. 80@ 450 and 160@450. Plus I took out the damm B+ fuse and I really don't know how. Stole the one out of my CTC 11 it was 3 and 2/10 amp. Set played for a short time and it went too. But I didn't unhook old cap's. Just used my sub box. You can tell I've been out of it for a bit. Put cart before the horse. LOL. I'll change caps then try again. I hope all goes ok. I should always check power supplies first. AC can play some good tricks for sure.

Shouldn't the fuse be a 3.5A, not a 3.2A? All of my RCA lit for the CTC10 shows a 3.5A fuse.

[Tom S]

It is 3.5. Robbed the one out of my 11 that was lower. Now it also has 3.5 as the circuit breaker was bad and pryor owner had put in a fuse holder. Should put in a breaker again like it had.

[Tom S]

Also wish I could get the right Lit. I have sams copy and it's ok. Be good to have the right stuff so to speak. If anyone has it I'd buy a copy.

[Findm-Keepm]

Originally Posted by Tom S

Also wish I could get the right Lit. I have sams copy and it's ok. Be good to have the right stuff so to speak. If anyone has it I'd buy a copy.

Look on eBay for the RCA field service guides - I have the 1955-1966 one, with all of the early color sets. It also has aa abbreviated parts list for each chassis.

[Tom S]

Thanks for the Tip Brian, Found one on Ebay and ordered it. Boy, alot of differences between the CTC10 and 11 Brightness and Chroma Circuits. I see the neon lamps pull to ground and on the 11 a 220K resistor pulls to ground. Also alot of different values of caps and resistors too. So what looks the same isn't. But we've all been there before.

[Tom S]

Well Looking for 2 more caps for this beast and I'll have them all done 160 mfd at 250VDC and 50mfd at 450VDC. Then the supply will be done. Anyone have an Idea where to get these? Thanks guys.

[Kevin Kuehn]

Hi Tom,

I think 47 and 150uf are your closest modern values. They should be well within tolerance for supply filters.

Here are some small diameter Nichicon's that are great for re-stuffing original cans. You can search uf and voltage ratings on mousers site and it will bring up several other options.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...47-UCS2E151MHD

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...7-UCS2W470MNY9

[Tom S]

Hey Thanks Kevin.

[Tom S]

Well I found a few caps I needed from an old shop here in town. Looks like my CTC10 is going to survive once again. Still lookin for a better CRT for my CTC11 and then I'll refinish the cabinet.

[holmesuser01]

I got a free CTC-10C set in 1975 that had a broken CYP22 kine. I had an FBP22 in my garage that I installed in this set. It works.

Other than a few tubes, the ONLY problem I've seen with my 10 is bad soldering between the chassis ground stakes and the PC boards. The horizontal oscillator board could be tapped with a pencil eraser and the screen image would lose horizontal lock.

I also replaced those neon lamps when one of them broke a lead.

My set has seen no tube replacements since 1979, and is still running just fine on its OEM capacitors.

[Tom S]

Don't trust those caps. I tested mine almost 3 years ago with my ESR meter. All checked great. But now that I play it daily they died. Changed them all. You should do the same. Also I found don't trust the meter on your variac. Boy does that make problems you've never seen. Was set at 120 and it was 115. Plays great when you crank it up. Lesson learned

[Tom S]

After a few weeks of waiting for parts and time to do the job my set is back among the living color. Must admit it turned out great. Thanks for all the input everyone.

[IsthmusTV]

It looks great, Tom. I'm sure it feels really good to have your baby back on line

-Clark