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#16
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I've been doing it without owning any de-soldering equipment for so long that it don't feel natural to use any unless it is on something that can't be done without it like a DIP chip.
You can get about the same effect as a sucker on chassis and PCB work by keeping the joint hot as you remove the lead with needle nose pliers...It is just a bit more blind and requires a bit of finesse. I did get a really good sucker a while back that changed my technique for a time before the latch/trigger broke and it became almost as janky as the squeeze bulb type RatShack sold....I'm too cheap and lazy to track down another as good so back to the old method....
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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#17
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Solder removal, what an exiting subject !
Ear irrigator style I found useless. One tech I knew swore by them cause solder wick cost $$. He was a cheap prick. Out of biz before anyone else.......... Plunger style works great on large stuff like FBT pins with griplets. Suck it clean then use dikes ( not that kind) to pull on the pins & free them. DO NOT use around SMD's you can suck up half a dozen resistors & caps & ruin your day. Solder wick is best for delicate work. A little practice & you can swap out a jungle IC in 5 mn. Its all in how you you angle the iron & wick. Get it right & you got it made in the shade. Professional vacuum stations. I found one at the dump once. Real pissah machine with a heat controlled iron & desoldering iron on the other side that had a vacuum suck up. Looked it up & found it went for over 1K$ USD ! The boss sprung for tips, filters & a manual. Damn thing was like owning a Euro sports car. Very touchy to keep running...... IMHO if it were in constant use on a rework line it may have worked well but NOT for the TV shop. Pull it & hope there are holes. Old school way. Biggest problem is usually no holes so you try to coax off the solder. Usually ends up with etch hanging off the tip of your iron. So for me it was QUALITY wick & a plunger solder puller. For hand wired Zeniths a Weller station with the hottest round tip was a joy on the terminal strips. 73 Zeno
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#18
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The Hakko 936 was suggested to me but there are so many chinese knockoffs that I can't risk it. |
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#19
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#20
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Ive always just used solder wick. It can be pricey but a roll lasts a while.
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My TV page and YouTube channel Kyocera R-661, Yamaha RX-V2200 National Panasonic SA-5800 Sansui 1000a, 1000, SAX-200, 5050, 9090DB, 881, SR-636, SC-3000, AT-20 Pioneer SX-939, ER-420, SM-B201 Motorola SK77W-2Z tube console McIntosh MC2205, C26 |
| Audiokarma |
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#21
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That's what I was going to use for now. It seems to be the next best thing to a Hakko 808.
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#22
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The Hakko 808 has been discontinued.... Reviews are very mixed on the newer FR-300.
![]() http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FR300-05...s=Hakko+fr-300 not affiliated with Amazon or Hakko, jr |
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#23
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Glad to see you back !
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Benevolent Despot |
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#24
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Doesn't matter too much I guess, almost every other piece of test/repair equipment I have is a discontinued model. At least a Hakko 808 wouldn't cost as much to ship as my Sencore PR57 and CR70... ouch.
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#25
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Omg. Tell me about it. Shipping anything these days is horrible. Also, hey Sandy! Thanks!
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My TV page and YouTube channel Kyocera R-661, Yamaha RX-V2200 National Panasonic SA-5800 Sansui 1000a, 1000, SAX-200, 5050, 9090DB, 881, SR-636, SC-3000, AT-20 Pioneer SX-939, ER-420, SM-B201 Motorola SK77W-2Z tube console McIntosh MC2205, C26 |
| Audiokarma |
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