83 Lincoln Continental - Page 5 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

Adam · #61 10-15-2020, 02:07 PM

Put 4 new tires on the Lincoln. The ones on there weren't out of tread, but they were old and brittle, the rubber was cracking. The Lincoln sat in a garage for nearly 10 years before I bought it, and I suspect the tires were at least 10 years old then.

And my floor jack quit working when I was putting the wheels back on, after nearly 30 years...

Adam · #62 12-06-2020, 12:02 PM

So yesterday I was about an hour away taking some of my students to a 'robot competition' (I think the word robot is stretching the truth a bit, but they make remote controlled machines that have to perform some task). Anyway, on the way back we pull into a Dunkin Donuts and my muffler falls off in the parking lot

(I was driving my Lincoln with all their stuff in the trunk, and the Bio teacher was driving all the students in her van.)

The main problem was that the pipe was flopping around loose and hitting up against the driveshaft, so I tied it up with some surplus metal from the students' robot spare parts kit and drove home. I would have rather just removed it and tossed it in a dumpster somewhere, but I didn't have the tools to detach the exhaust clamps holding it in on me (I really need to start keeping some tools in my trunk).

Unfortunately, in the Phoenix area any car newer that '66 has to pass a smog check, otherwise I would just replace the whole exhaust system with dual exhaust and no catalytic converters. (There's a loophole but it requires you get this classic car insurance which limits how much you drive the car usually to 5K miles per year. I eventually want to go this route with my Firebird - but it doesn't make sense with the Lincoln which I got for a daily driver).

It uses 2 catalytic converters (which are pretty rusty too), which feed into a single muffler. I'm thinking I should just replace everything (or maybe I could get away with just replacing the catalytic converters and everything behind them). I'm trying to find all the parts in one place and having no luck, I'm looking around online and I see catalytic converters, tailpipes, mufflers that might work, I don't see the pipes that join the cats to the muffler anywhere at all.

MadMan · #63 12-06-2020, 07:46 PM

Throwing the loose muffler away is a big mistake that I've had too many customers make! The guy making a new exhaust for your car needs a template! KEEP IT.

Also just go to a muffler shop and let them remake it from scratch. The car is old enough that locating all direct-fit exhaust parts is not necessarily viable.

Adam · #64 12-29-2020, 10:24 PM

I got the muffler, tailpipe, and piece that goes from the y-pipe following the two cats to the muffler. That's all I absolutely need to replace now.

It really doesn't need the pipes going from the manifolds to the cats, but if I keep driving it for a while I will eventually have to replace the cats and that y-pipe. After searching more throughly, the y-pipe appears to be the only part that is not available.

There are 3 things I have to repair in the dash, which I am taking apart now.

1. The radio: already cleaned controls, and replaced belts (now I have a working cassette player

) This car came with a nice stereo: six speakers, 4 front (2 in the dash and 2 in the doors) and two rear, and the rear speakers are run off a separate amp mounted near the speakers in the trunk. The cassette player even has noise reduction.

2. I need to change the vacuum-operated switch that automatically releases the parking brake. It was leaking vacuum, so I had just plugged the line. I have a new one, but the switch is mounted to the firewall directly above the steering column, and there was one screw I just could not get to from below - so I'm hoping to get to it from above.

3. Heater core - currently leaking and bypassed.

4. I'm enjoying those Perry Mason tapes I picked up last week ....

Adam · #65 12-30-2020, 02:15 PM

I was just talking about how great the stereo sounds, and I take out the speakers in the dash this morning and see that they are nearly disintegrated... But, surprisingly I was able to locate replacements.

MadMan · #66 12-31-2020, 02:39 AM

Nice.

Adam · #67 03-20-2021, 10:43 AM

So this week I've:

1. Now got a working cassette player with new belts and new speakers in the dash. (I think I'm going to need to replace the speakers in the doors too. I'll get to it when I take the door panels off to figure out what's wrong with the power widows.)

2. Replaced the heater core - but haven't hooked it up yet.

3. Replaced the tailpipe, muffler, and short exhaust pipe which bolts to the y-pipe following the two cats and connects to the muffler. - Which makes this the only one of my 3 cars with no exhaust leaks. I want to put a nice set of duals on the Ranchero - but I just noticed a crack in the right exhaust manifold, so I'll have to replace that when I do it too.

4. I replaced that switch which releases the parking brake, but found out the actual device that does the releasing is leaking vacuum too (It's sort of a vacuum powered solenoid).

5. I'm going to change the oil and filter today - at least I'll be able to drive this to work again next week.

Adam · #68 04-03-2021, 10:38 AM

I hooked up the heater core, so now that I don't need it anymore because it's getting hot again, the heater works.

There's a T-fitting which attaches to a 3/8" hose which goes to a built-in oil cooler. I couldn't get the 3/8 hose which I needed to replace it (it has a sharp 180 deg bend in it), so I just ran a longer hose in such a way that I didn't need to bend it sharply.

Adam · #69 05-22-2021, 01:52 AM

I finally figured out the reason it was having trouble starting after sitting outside on a hot day was due to the electronic ignition control module ("Duraspark III" as Ford calls it). Put in a new module, the problem went away.

Adam · #70 07-09-2024, 10:38 AM

So last week I swapped my 72 Ranchero for a 52 Lincoln Cosmopolitan (Not even close to running (the insulation on all the wiring is bad) - but a very straight body with original paint, no rust, it's all there).

Then I crashed my 2004 Chevy truck, which I'd been using as a driver. The rear suspension is completely ruined, I'm considering just parting it out or selling it as is.

The 83 Lincoln still isn't running, and now the only running car I have is my 84 Firebird with no AC (even the '52 Lincoln has AC! - but it's missing the 2nd radiator), in this 115 degree heat.

I've been trying to fix this '83 Lincoln but I can't figure it out. It runs fine for the first 5 minutes or so until it warms up (it doesn't overheat). Then it starts to miss usually when I'm idling at a stop light - if I turn off the AC it improves it a bit, but it will still eventually get worse, until, if you keep driving it, it will eventually stall. If you let it go on long enough it won't start again. Then if you let it sit for a few hours it starts fine, and you can repeat the process.

If it won't start, spraying starting fluid down the tbi unit does no good, and it appears as if there is no spark - I pulled a spark plug wire and tried to see if I could see it arc. So I replaced the: rotor, cap, wires, plugs, coil, ignition control module, and crankshaft sensor which is mounted hear the harmonic balancer. I tried multiple coils and ignition control modules.

After I just replaced that crank sensor and drove it around a bit the problem reoccurred, and I noticed one of the catalytic converters was smoking. But I had tried removing them and just driving with straight pipes before and it made no difference (except for a slight increase in power - it still started missing after a few minutes).

Since I've had this car I have also replaced the fuel pumps (there's 2 of them one in the tank and one below it).

I can't take driving in this 115 degree heat with no AC anymore. I'm at the point where I'm considering selling the Firebird, just so I can buy another truck with AC (this time I want one of those small trucks). But this would probably take longer than just fixing the '83 Lincoln if I could only figure out what was wrong with it. Anyone know these cars well enough to have a guess?

Electronic M · #71 07-09-2024, 04:35 PM

Is there any additional computer or sensors related to the ignition? I'd assume if it still uses a distributor the engine goew back to the points era, and there's probably a late 60s points dist that will drop in.... I'd be tempted to drop in a points dist, manually wire it to the battery with a switch, and see what it does...(Also look at the slot on the oil pump grear if it's that style and see if it wallowed out).
I've never had issues with the duraspark module in my 78 Lincoln (knock on simulated wood dash), but I've seen others cuss them out for failing and new ones not always being good.

Adam · #72 07-10-2024, 09:36 AM

With this system - the Duraspark III, unlike the earlier Duraspark II, the advance is entirely computer controlled, and it uses the crank sensor, so there's nothing to the distributor but the cap and rotor.

If I still had the '72 Ranchero with the 302, I could have just taken the distributor out and tried that. (But I always preferred the way GM did their distributors so you could adjust the points with a dwell meter connected and the engine running - as opposed to Fords where you had to use the feeler gauge)

I'm tempted to try converting to the earlier electronic ignition system (the Duraspark II with an ordinary vacuum advance distributor and no crank sensor) - Looking around online I see people have done it, but I doubt that's something I could sort out quickly.

...Or I could get a points distributor and a 2 barrel carb (which I believe will fit on the same intake as the tbi), and just be done with this whole mess.

jr_tech · #73 07-10-2024, 03:26 PM

Does that year/model system employ an oxygen sensor?

jr

init4fun · #74 07-10-2024, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adam

So last week I swapped my 72 Ranchero for a 52 Lincoln Cosmopolitan (Not even close to running (the insulation on all the wiring is bad) - but a very straight body with original paint, no rust, it's all there).

Then I crashed my 2004 Chevy truck, which I'd been using as a driver. The rear suspension is completely ruined, I'm considering just parting it out or selling it as is.

The 83 Lincoln still isn't running, and now the only running car I have is my 84 Firebird with no AC (even the '52 Lincoln has AC! - but it's missing the 2nd radiator), in this 115 degree heat.

I've been trying to fix this '83 Lincoln but I can't figure it out. It runs fine for the first 5 minutes or so until it warms up (it doesn't overheat). Then it starts to miss usually when I'm idling at a stop light - if I turn off the AC it improves it a bit, but it will still eventually get worse, until, if you keep driving it, it will eventually stall. If you let it go on long enough it won't start again. Then if you let it sit for a few hours it starts fine, and you can repeat the process.

If it won't start, spraying starting fluid down the tbi unit does no good, and it appears as if there is no spark - I pulled a spark plug wire and tried to see if I could see it arc. So I replaced the: rotor, cap, wires, plugs, coil, ignition control module, and crankshaft sensor which is mounted hear the harmonic balancer. I tried multiple coils and ignition control modules.

After I just replaced that crank sensor and drove it around a bit the problem reoccurred, and I noticed one of the catalytic converters was smoking. But I had tried removing them and just driving with straight pipes before and it made no difference (except for a slight increase in power - it still started missing after a few minutes).

Since I've had this car I have also replaced the fuel pumps (there's 2 of them one in the tank and one below it).

I can't take driving in this 115 degree heat with no AC anymore. I'm at the point where I'm considering selling the Firebird, just so I can buy another truck with AC (this time I want one of those small trucks). But this would probably take longer than just fixing the '83 Lincoln if I could only figure out what was wrong with it. Anyone know these cars well enough to have a guess?

I'll bet these guys can help ya, especially Dereck & Gadget .....

https://www.lincolnsonline.com/forum/index.php

Username1 · #75 07-15-2024, 10:38 PM

.

Hi - You have a nice looking car. The problem you have sounds like possibly you are
loosing energy in your spark, or it's intermittent, and then quits as it gets hot.... It
looks like there are 2 engine modules in that EEC III system from what I have found
online... We have had a number of Fords of those years and never any ignition
problems.... I did find a few resources you might find helpful...
Also check out fuel pump relay, & power to the EEC be sure it's
getting to the modules & staying on and steady.... (Possible relay there too).

YT video to get codes off computer... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=puAEJ3BYFeY

I bet there are many more... as a matter of fact YT should be the best place to look
for help with this as it's an old and well known system.

A few forums that have posted about the EEC III System.

This pic shows 2 modules in the system....
https://www.mustangevolution.com/att...iii-gif.31991/

Forum questions about EEC III Gen Diag.
https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td75706

1982 engine emissions diag.
https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/198...diagnosis.html

Ignition Systems.
https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/ignition-systems.html

All EEC Systems Ford Used.
https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/ele...ntrol-eec.html

My Dad had a '86 T-Bird with 302, spit injection, & AOD trans, it lasted over
150K miles until sold for a newer car and the new owner kept it for
many many more miles....

My '88 Dakota has spit injection too - Very good!

Good Luck.

I would not change out the system to something older.

.