admiral 24c15 with 20b1 chassis attempt at restore

[fumplet]

Recapped powersupply section separate chassis and thought Id see if it had life by variac. Absolutely nothing. My shaver cheater cord is making contact and power switch working. Thought Id check fuses and discovered holder for both fuses was/is/ in the process of failing. Hunting for screws/nuts to fix this then see if tubes light.
Fixed fuse block with screws and nuts. Now power supply tubes light up but tv chassis filaments seem to be not lighting. dont know yet if this is a series string tube chassis. power supply does have a 6k6 instead of a 6v6 tube in it. Not sure thats good for testing or not.

[bandersen]

It is not series string. You need to make sure that connector from power supply to TV chassis is making good contact on all the pins. Put some pressure on it and wiggle a little while it's powered up and see if the TV tubes light up

[bandersen]

I created a YouTube series on restoring this set you might find useful.
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL...eouW5jJSvC1YQM

[fumplet]

ok y es had thought you made a video of this chassis. also found it on schematic. so yes not series string. coudnt find your video series on it so yes thanks for that.
Update: wiggled and reapplied radioshack tuner cleaner and lube with my finger to the main power supply connector pins and reinserted several times and got all tubes to light. Bonus is picture tube raster so its recapp time of the rest of it. Ratheon picture tube. ON back on back of hv cage in pencil crtube 2-9-52 so thats very cool. Maybe thats why inside of tube doesnt look very burnt at all near element like high mileage crt's do. Tested awesome on the cr70 sencore tester assuming the tester is accurate. going to have to watch the banderson 20b1 chassis series I found one of them but they didnt autoplay as Id hoped. Raster picture is at 90 volts

[bandersen]

Fantastic!
By the way, after you upload an image you can wrap the resulting URL in '[img] your image URL [/img]' and it will display in the comment.

[fumplet]

Ok I had forgotten that img thing posting pictures, since its been a super long time since I had even messed with radios/tvs.

[fumplet]

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/xU_c2sI6upU
Also trying to figure out how to get raster more twards the bottom of tube currently. Picture looks like its maybe rolled over?
After 3 caps installed to replace multisection cap,(1st 3 caps in main chassis I had done!), I lost raster, had to figure out why! Translation: I had decided after the complete tube test and pin straighten(daughter helping so maybe too much extra tube wiggle widened socket pins) with dabs of deoxit on tube pins, I took the chassis over to friends house, did the 3 caps and bam no raster! discovered yet again tube filament problems. 6bg6 wasnt lighting. I even tested the 2 and 7 pins to discover no voltage. I dont know if I tested wrong pins or wasnt supposed to test for ac but no voltage. Decided to tighten tube socket pins because it just didnt feel right and bam tube lit after that. Tube gets same voltage as other tubes so its not like that tube had its own special voltage.

[fumplet]

I really do need a readable schematic. I think I got mine off the etf but I cant seem to download new eyeballs to read it.
Wow! In beginners guide to tv restoration part 4, I noticed your ion trap, the screws are totally horizontal. Mine are not! Different picture tube maybe, Makes me wonder if My ion trap is way out of adjustment. For the pie dual 40 micro farad caps I used 47uf at 450 volts.

[zeno]

For your re cap do it one stage at a time. Recheck as you go every few caps.
Order is: power supply - HV & horz - vert - then the rest......
Many sets never work again after a re cap so go slow.

47 mfd is fine for 40's. Off the shelf caps come in 1, 2.2, 3.3, 4.7
10, 22, 33, 47 etc. SO use a little higher in mfd, voltage & heat.
Tolerance is high ( 20%) anyhows.

good luck
Zeno
LFOD !

[bandersen]

Ion trap magnet position is going to depend on the CRT electron gun structure and how the CRT is positioned on the chassis. It won't be the same from set to set.

[fumplet]

I didnt recap by stage but I think I did by area of chassis. 3 to 4 caps at a time and test fire it. I dont have enough experience to recognize a stage just by looking at it from underneath just because Ive never tried to identify a stage but maybe I should try to figure out exact stage beginnings and endings with this tv. Raster is close to bottom of screen now. still not at bottom though maybe less than 2 inches. Trying to remember what adjusts total vertical position up and down or maybe there isnt an adjustment for that and something else is off. I didnt try to crank up voltage above 90 volts I forgot. picture faded dark when I went over 90

[TV-collector]

Hi,
I am entering your discussion late.
ACCORDING TO YOUR VIDEO YOU HAVE TO CHECK RESISTORS!
The fault in question could be a problem with caps, tubes and resistors!
Just when you pull the old caps, it is a chance to test resistors, with one end
in the air!
There are not so many in the vertical section.
From my experience I like to say, your issue is a combination of caps and resistor(s)!
They are aging fine...

Regards,
TV-collector

[fumplet]

Right now Im having problems with the 6bg6 tube. I thought the pins were loose because its not lighting again. Either the socket is really that bad or voltage isnt getting to the tube or the tube is some how being affected by something dont know yet

[bandersen]

Is yours a TV only or combo unit? The combo unit cuts filament power to the 6BG6 when in radio or phono mode.

[fumplet]

television only as far as I know. if theres a radio hook up to it I dont know. chassis says 20b1.. maybe me cleaning and tightening the tube socket is just coincidence that the tube lights sometimes. I did get to test the voltage at bottom of socket once and it was like 4.98 volts......thats low!
Just looked on front and I do not see any indication or printing of the word radio or phono on front of cabinet
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/15qjJ2yhfvk