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#32
01-03-2007, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
__________________
Jordan 
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#33
01-03-2007, 11:04 PM
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To replace a 4.0 mfd electrolytic capacitor with 4 orange drops, you would need four 1.0 mfd orange drops. The largest common value that I have seen is 0.33 mfd. It would take 12(0.33 X 12 is approx 4). of these which are fairly large in size.
How common are 1.0 mfd orange drops? The value 0.1 mfd is very common so possibly someone is getting confused. It would take 40 of the 0.1 mfd caps to replace a 4.0 mfd cap.
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#34
01-04-2007, 09:17 AM
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1.0 mfd at 630V Orange Dips are listed on Justradios.com
I've heard you all mention using them, so I didn't think stacking 4 together would be a problem to get 4mfd. ?
__________________
From Captain Video, 1/4/2007 "It seems that Italian people are very prone to preserve antique stuff."
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#35
01-04-2007, 11:21 AM
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Replaced electrolytics in the I and Q signal paths in my recently restored CTC2. They feed the chroma signals to the matrix. Electrolytics were used by RCA in 1954. Today we have JustRadios and others supplying modern parts with modern dialectric materials  See asterisks in the overall shot. Close up is 2C299 feeding the Q signal to the matrix at the red board. Pete
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#36
01-04-2007, 12:41 PM
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Just to clarify: You can put non-polarized in place of polarized but you cannot put polarized in place of non-polarized. There are also some non-polarized electrolytics out there, I think for use with motors?
__________________
Bryan
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#37
01-04-2007, 08:00 PM
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I have not dealt with justradios.com, so had not seen the 1.0 ufd orange(yellow in Petes picture) capacitors. I have used many of the electrolytics and the smaller size modern orange drops seen in Petes picture.
I have also replaced several 3 to 4 ufd capacitors, usually in the ratio detector of TVs. These are required to be 50 volts or so, so are easy to find. However, I have replaced some that require 3 to 4 ufd at 450 volts and had no trouble to date finding modern versions of these. I have some modern 33 ufd at 500 volt electrolytics that I have used when voltages above 450 are required. As shown in Petes picture and mentioned previously, using non-electrolytics to replace small value electrolytics is not a problem when space is avaliable. I am at present working on a 1958 Philco Seventeener with all of the electrolytics mounted just between the bottom of the CRT and the chassis. I replaced all of the filters, etc with modern electrolytics. Space would have been an issue in a set like this if I tried to do otherwise(I had to remove the CRT to get to them).
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#38
01-04-2007, 09:49 PM
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If you don't absolutely have to have actual Sprague (Vishay) -brand Orange Drop capacitors, Mouser (www.mouser.com) has Cornell-Dubilier DME caps with 630V ratings with values up to 2.2 uF.
These are metallized polyester caps, and while I've never bought these in such high values, I must say I've been pretty happy with the ones I've used so far. I bought a bunch of 630V-rated versions (they're available in voltage ratings from 100VDC to 1000VDC) of these in several different values from Mouser a while back, and so far they've been nice. They're quite a bit smaller than Orange Drops-- the smaller size and the flatter shape of them makes them easier to fit in crowded areas (in my opinion). I like their overall appearance better too-- they're a muted dark brown-orange color that I think blends in more nicely with existing components in an old chassis or PC board a lot better than the bright-orange color of Orange Drops. They're also significantly less expensive. I don't know if their current handling is comparable to Orange Drops, but perhaps someone else here knows and/or has had experience with these..? (Note: If you're trying to find these in the Mouser catalog (.pdf version is available on their web site), the Cornell-Dubilier DME caps are on page 671; they also sell Sprague Orange Drops, and they're on page 679)
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#39
01-04-2007, 10:43 PM
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I have also used the caps similary to those mentioned by whirled one in some applications. I have not had any issues to date. The 0.1 mfd value is the largest that I have used. The ones that I have used are dark blue, not brown, purchased from local radio club members.
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#40
01-16-2007, 12:41 PM
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Waiting for these caps to arrive is killing me.
Everything I order from Canada always looks like a bomb... Last summer it was a thermostat for my 1950 Kelvinator fridge, now it's a box of capacitors. I suspect this stuff is sitting in customs waiting to see if I'm on a "terrorist" list. I should have just stood on the banks of the Detroit river and had them float it over from Windsor. Ugh.
__________________
From Captain Video, 1/4/2007 "It seems that Italian people are very prone to preserve antique stuff."
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#41
01-28-2007, 08:03 PM
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The Caps are here! The Caps are here!
Actually, they arrived a few days ago.
I was all set to reward myself with some old TV work after doing a bunch of less-fun stuff over the past few days. So I warmed up the old soldering iron and sat down to work... ...And quickly realized that I had forgot some of what I had taken apart a few weeks ago...  I had unsoldered two capacitor cans, and now I can't be sure how they were installed. One was a 160 mfd can, and the other was a 160mfd/80mfd can. I did label the leads, but here's the problem: One of the leads was soldered from one terminal of the 160mfd can, to another terminal on the other 160mfd/80mfd can. I labled them both "160mfd". Here's a pic:  Now one of these I marked with a square (as per the can) so I'm pretty sure it leads to the + side of a 160mfd cap. However, the other lead is simply marked with a triangle (again, per the can). I might assume that this side was the - , but why would there be TWO leads to negative? As was mention by someone else earlier, one of these cans does not "ground" to the chassis... Should I assume the others do? Can someone tell me if this is correct: Lead labeled 80mfd connects to the + side of an 80mfd cap, - side of cap to chassis. Lead labeled 160mfd (square) connects to the + side of 160mfd cap (I actually already did this in the photo) - side of cap to ??? (Because this cap was not grounded to chassis) Leads labeled 160mfd (triangle) connect to ??? This is damn hard to explain in a written post...
__________________
From Captain Video, 1/4/2007 "It seems that Italian people are very prone to preserve antique stuff."
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#42
01-28-2007, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
I took a look at the picture you put up when your set went down and it looks like there are two yellow wires that went to the - side of the isolated 160 uf cap. One brown wire to the + side. Double check that to make sure I am not wrong. Just look at the can caps and see how they are mounted to the chassis. Check and see if they go to the chassis ground or have a sleeve to isolate it from chassis ground. The 160 and 80 uf can should go to chassis ground but still double check the picture on that one too. On most can caps the metel can itself is the ground side of the caps in it.
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#43
01-28-2007, 10:29 PM
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I don't have that schematic, but usually these power suppiles are similar. Usually one of the 160s sort of sits across the output of the power transformer, the + side connected after the rectifiers, and the negative directly to the other side of that winding of the transformer and also to + side of the other 160. The - side of that 2nd 160 goes to chassis ground. But I'd hold out for a schematic to be sure before trying it.
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