![]() |
|
#11
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
No problem with ground floating ground, it will just cease to be floating when connected to a grounded source. This is not really a hot chassis, the power transformer does provide isolation. You can ground the chassis to earth if you make sure you have the correct power line polarity as discussed before, end even with incorrect polarity, the leakage will be small and tolerable as long as the line filter components (one resistor and two capacitors) are OK. Do not plug the tubes one by one! Instead, install all the tubes except the rectifier. It would be best to start up with a variac (do a bit of research with this word), or with an incandescent bulb in series, but in a pinch the line fuse will do. With power applied, tube heaters should light up (not very bright, but visible in the dark). Let the set run (while watching) for maybe 30 minutes. The power transformer should get mildly warm, but not any hotter. Without rectifier, no DC will be generated, so no voltage measurements to be done at this point. You may use your old tubes for this test (hope you did not discard them), many or all are likely to be good. Bad tubes would be detected later by measurements and substitutions. Now with power off, install the rectifier tube. The time for the full test is approaching. Securely hook up your DC voltmeter to C23 and ground. Turn on power, and watch the meter. The situation is now the same as before, so no sparks are expected, but as the rectifier warms up, the correct DC voltage (275) should appear. If the value is substantially lower, it means you have a short somewhere down the road from the rectifier, HIT THE POWER SWITCH. Otherwise, listen for some hum in the speaker, etc. You may start doing the voltage measurements you suggested. This should get you going for a while. Good night. |
|
|