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Old 04-28-2007, 08:53 PM
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Adam Adam is offline
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All that stuff I did yesterday that I thought fixed this, didn't. Now the only color I'm getting is green, even if I let the set warm up for a while. And it's not that the blue and red guns don't work at all, because I can get a good b/w picture, just not a color picture with anything but white and green. I also get a good red, green, and blue horizontal line when I flip the service switch. Now according to the schematic down below, the voltage at the plate of the burst amp tube should be 50v, I have 400v. Is that a misprint or is it supposed to be 50v? If it is supposed to be 50v and not 400v, I can't find any components in that area that are bad that could be causing that. Now the 6EW6 is definetly good (and I tried another one too), but if I remove the tube while the set is running, there is no difference in the picture whatsoever. And the tint control has no effect as well. Any thoughts?

Last edited by Adam; 09-13-2009 at 10:37 AM.
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Old 04-28-2007, 09:06 PM
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Chad Hauris Chad Hauris is offline
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Try adjusting the color intensity control...if the chroma signal channel is working you will be able to vary the picture from straight black and white at the minimum of the control to a purple or green hue at the maximum.
You will need the 3.58 mhz oscillator signal to get actual colors and the burst signal to get it in sync.
If you have a scope I would check out the signal at the 3.58 mhz oscillator tube and see if a signal is being produced. Check the grid of the 3.58 mhz oscillator section and check the negative voltage against the schematic. As I remember you should have about -7 volts if the tube is oscilating.
Also check out the 6JU8 phase detector circuit if the set uses this tube.
If the 6EW6 plate voltage is high this means the tube is not drawing current...check for open components in cathode circuit and that the screen voltage is normal.
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Last edited by Chad Hauris; 04-28-2007 at 09:09 PM.
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