Checking Vertical Output Transformers??

[Tubejunke]

My remote chassis uses 3-6AU6, 2-6CM7, 2-6AL5, and 1-5Y3GT. The power connection is a 3 wire rectangular plug that inserts beside the main power transformer, also there is a 5 wire round socket for the wires from the tuner motor.

I think it would be safe to call the hum a 60 cycle. It is similar to what you hear when you have bad caps in a power supply. Actually I didnt know that there were different kinds of hum. I started in working on old radios and I have heard many a radio with a similar hum.

What method do you use for measuring voltages when a chassis must be separated from other components? Maybe I know the answer to my question. You could use jumper wires or extentions and a test crt in order to have the chassis doing what it is supposed to do on the bench. In my situation again the crt, the tuner, and remote chassis are out of circuit when the main chassis is removed.

[Tube TV]

Tubejunke , I got that schematic too, the rectangular pin has , black , gray , blue wires on it ,it should be blue they are coded as BL im assuming they are blue . Two of these go to a power trans then the 5Y3 , that operates the remote system . there appears to be a 5 pin plug for the motor however I can only find 4 wires , the 5th center terminal has no connection . there is also 1 selenium rectifier in the power supply . does yours have that ?
Would you like a copy of these schematics ?
When I have measured voltages in the past I have had the tube out , some sets you can flip the chassis and connect it to the picture tube . but this might be easier said than done , alot of the TV's I have are not bigger than
17 "
How would it be to remove the controls and the CRT ? your best bet is the extentions like you said earlier .

Like I say , I have the schematics , If you want them send me a PM with your address and I will get you a photocopy of them .
I would scan them but I still havent got a scanner yet .

murray

[Eric H]

TJ, did you change all the can type capacitors or just the one for the power supply? (usually C1)

One of the cans is connected to the vertical and will kill it if it's bad.

I just got done with a Zenith Flash Matic and it was a bit of a pain, I had to remove the tuner and remote chassis and hook them up on the bench.
It wasn't as bad as it sounds, my tuner just had two screws holding it in the back and a slotted bracket up front, popped it right out and hooked it up.

A test CRT like this one is a big big help:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-NOS-GE-G...QQcmdZViewItem

Same thing but in a box: http://cgi.ebay.com/Tele-Check-Model...QQcmdZViewItem

It gives you a place to hook the second anode up and you can see what the set is doing while you work.