'47 magnavox - gutless high voltage....

[Don Lindsly]

1. The 6BG6 is a real possibility.
2. Test the "doorknob" by removing the CRT socket, run the TV for a couple of minutes, shut off and see if it retains a charge at the anode. You should test at the 1B3 bottom since disconnecting the anode will eliminate the capacitor formed by the CRT aquadag coating.
3. Check the resistors under the 1B3 if/when you replace the doorknob. There are usually two. One is a low value (2-5 ohms)filament dropping and the other is a high value (470K-2.2 meg) filter. They don't need to be exact; +/- 20-30% is OK for now.
5. Remove the doorknob and see if you get any more high voltage. If everything else is OK, the TV will work without it. (There may be some other minor symptoms.)
6. Do you have a chassis or model number?

[nasadowsk]

1. The 6BG6 is a real possibility.

Gonna be on order monday...

2. Test the "doorknob" by removing the CRT socket, run the TV for a couple of minutes, shut off and see if it retains a charge at the anode. You should test at the 1B3 bottom since disconnecting the anode will eliminate the capacitor formed by the CRT aquadag coating.

Oh, it's, well, dead as a doorknob. Holds no charge at all. Not anything like the Bendix I have where I swear the thing's haunted - ground it and it pops back from the dead a few minutes later.

3. Check the resistors under the 1B3 if/when you replace the doorknob. There are usually two. One is a low value (2-5 ohms)filament dropping and the other is a high value (470K-2.2 meg) filter. They don't need to be exact; +/- 20-30% is OK for now.

Hmmm, That's another place I'll have to check...

5. Remove the doorknob and see if you get any more high voltage. If everything else is OK, the TV will work without it. (There may be some other minor symptoms.)

The HV's pretty much the same, maybe an extra kv, if that much.

6. Do you have a chassis or model number?

Ahh yes, it's a Magnavox chassis CT238.