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#1
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excellent save! Another zenith lives on. I like that model very much. I dont think Ive ever seen a zenith roundie that didnt have a broken convergence clover of that design!
As for the lateral magnet, on these early sets, they are actually supposed to be at about 2 o'clock position like its shown. If you were to move the lateral magnet to the top like most other sets, you would notice that it would move the blue lines vertically as opposed to laterally. you can see the blue pole piece through the neck at the 2 oclock, just center the magnet over it. The 26KC20 is zenith's 3rd generation TV chassis. Ive actually got one in a metal woodgrain cabinet like yours. I dont think anyone on the forum has or has ever seen a 27KC20, which is the next chassis after the 29JC20. As for the "cateracts" on the 21FBP22, its very typical. There is a rubber gasket between the CRT and the lens. You will have to pull the CRT out of the set like you would expect and the lens will simply spearate from the CRT once you remove the mounting bezel assembly. The rubber gasket breaks down and will be very oily. You will notice a pool of oil between the glass and the lens at the bottom of the CRT when you pull it apart. There will probably also be some oily residue inside the cabinet beneath the CRT. The cateract appearnce is oil vapor residue. It cleans off really easy. I clean the gasket, which in my experiences have always been very flexible and not dry rotted with alchohol to dry the gasket of the oily fim and remove the residue. soap and water really doesnt do it too well. Good luck with it! |
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#2
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Very nice...I always though the black finish sets looked the best of all, wonder why they seem to be less common?
I have a black enamel finish CTC-10 or 11 and it has that kind of fake speaker type base too but with casters...would be nice if some actual speakers were put in there. |
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#3
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Quote:
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My TV page and YouTube channel Kyocera R-661, Yamaha RX-V2200 National Panasonic SA-5800 Sansui 1000a, 1000, SAX-200, 5050, 9090DB, 881, SR-636, SC-3000, AT-20 Pioneer SX-939, ER-420, SM-B201 Motorola SK77W-2Z tube console McIntosh MC2205, C26 Last edited by zenithfan1; 06-19-2008 at 11:35 AM. Reason: additional comment |
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#4
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My 25LC30 is in a genuine wood veneer cabinet, though, and I just got that one disassembled in preparation for refinishing yesterday and re-secured the loose top cap on the 6HF5 Horiz. Out. tube. The convergence yoke on this set is the "color coded" enclosed type rather than the open-frame white plastic. I also just got my Philco 16M91 roundie into watchable condition. That set had been in storage since 2003, so it was well past time to move forward with its restoration. That was the one where I got it home and discovered the detached CRT base lying on the chassis and CRT leads broken off at the glass. I had bought a used 21FJP22 with good emission, balance, and tracking "cheap" to use in the Philco just before the "road trip" to get the truckload of Zenith sets and before I knew there was a used 21GVP22A and NOS 21FJP22A to be had from the same seller. I already had the "cheap" replacement CRT mounted in the Philco set by then. It turned out the "cheap" tube had H-K leakage on the red gun, but I used an "isolator/brightener" wired in "isolation-only" mode to isolate the cathodes. Until I get that startup loan paid off, there was no point in letting an otherwise-usable tube sit idle waiting for a rebuild that I can't afford yet. Last edited by jshorva65; 07-02-2009 at 02:44 AM. |
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#5
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There's about a 3/8" oblong "puncture wound" in one of the side panels of the 27KC20's "Woodgrain photo on Masonite" cabinet along with several deep scratches, so the preliminary assessment is that I'll need to have new top and side panels made from 1/8" Cabinet Grade plywood, sealed with several coats of sanding sealer on the inside to prevent warping from the heat of the tubes, and glued to the original frame and moldings. It seems that only the inner frame, wood moldings, bottom, and legs of the original cabinet will be reusable. At least unless there's a way to close up the hole in the side and apply a new "photo" finish to the three original panels at reasonable cost. Barring that, I don't see any way to avoid a non-original cabinet for this set.
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