7VT5RA Motorola

[newhallone]

This is using windows built in paint program. I think the resolution of the scan is not high enough. So If someone were good with photo shop it could be made to look pretty good. This was 15 min of fooling around. One trick is to copy a section next to the blacked out part. Then flip it then paste it on. It fades together because it's the mirror image to what is next to it. I didn't do that for all of what I did as you can see. Just fooling around.

[jeyurkon]

Originally Posted by newhallone

Not quite right is it. Maybe I can talk someone into Photoshoping what you have with what I have. I have your missing piece with over spray. The page will be helpful later though. How many pages is that manual?

The manual is about 14 pages including a supplement and parts list. Then there is the schematic that I posted before. I probably need to rescan that.

It doesn't cover the TS-18A. The TS-18A just has a change in the filament wiring. Otherwise, it's the same. If you need that let me know. I can sketch it.

In your other post what did you mean by "not quite right?" Is there a difference from your set or just mean that it's not what you hope to attach to the set?

John Y.

[newhallone]

I meant that it's not quite right to use as a reproduction to slap on the inside of the case to make it look authentic.

[newhallone]

Mine is the Ts-18A it turns out. I probably wont need the sketch. I keep it in mind tho.

[maxm]

Here is a reproduction of the tube layout that I made in the drawing program FreeHand. I suppose you could print it out on yellowed paper or do other things to make it look old. The font is not quite right, but it is the closest one I could find (Helvetica Neue Light). Maybe somebody can use this as a basis for something that would look more original in the set.

Here is a link to an EPS copy so you can edit it in a program like Illustrator or other vector drawing programs.

http://homepage.mac.com/brameika/MotorolaLayout.eps

This is the FreeHand file if anybody else uses the program.
http://homepage.mac.com/brameika/MotorolaLayout.FH10

[jeyurkon]

Hey! That's pretty good! Thanks.

John Y.

[newhallone]

You bet! Thank you!

[maxm]

Thanks, I needed to work on my computer drawing skills, so I thought I would try this. I just replaced the one in my original post with one a little better, the curves on the CRT look a little more accurate, but that's the hardest part to get right.

[newhallone]

As a Christmas gift my good ol Mom is going to strip and refinish this and my chairside zenith. I just talked with her on the phone and she said it looks like it was originally painted brown. And the grain is not all that attractive. So it looks like I am going to paint it black. Any thoughts on what I should go with? I could use Imron. It's tough. Something more original would be lacquer. But try to get nitrocellulose like they had back then. It's expensive and allegedly bad for us

[newhallone]

Here is an update. My mom stripped it down all the way. The brown turned out to be just another layer of paint. the Stain does not look too bad. Any recommendations as to what to do finish wise? Stain the front to match the top and sides? What decals are available ?

[compucat]

I will be interested to see how this goes as I plan to refinish the cabinet on my Motorola 9VT1 and get it going again. I don't think these sets had control marking decals. Mine has the original finish and there are no decals.

The metal bezel around the CRT safety glass appears to be plated brass by the way.

[bandersen]

Originally Posted by newhallone

As a Christmas gift my good ol Mom is going to strip and refinish this and my chairside zenith. I just talked with her on the phone and she said it looks like it was originally painted brown. And the grain is not all that attractive. So it looks like I am going to paint it black. Any thoughts on what I should go with? I could use Imron. It's tough. Something more original would be lacquer. But try to get nitrocellulose like they had back then. It's expensive and allegedly bad for us

Why not use modern lacquer? It's widely available and looks a lot better than Imron (polyurethane).

[newhallone]

My plan was to use a lacquer for the final coat. Leaning toward newer lacquer. Just getting opinions on staining/toning.

I have the brass plating stuff from AES I am going to try on the metal bezel.

I guess if it ever comes to light that I need decals I could slide them on and give it another coat of lacquer.

[bandersen]

Originally Posted by newhallone

My plan was to use a lacquer for the final coat. Leaning toward newer lacquer. Just getting opinions on staining/toning.

Mohawk toners work really well. I'm not sure of the exact color for this model though.

I have the brass plating stuff from AES I am going to try on the metal bezel.

I guess if it ever comes to light that I need decals I could slide them on and give it another coat of lacquer.

Mohawk toners work really well, but I'm not sure what the right color is for this model.

Have you tried using the AES plating stuff on anything yet ?
I've used the Caswell kit and it came out looking more like copper than brass.

That strategy should work fine for decals.

[newhallone]

This is the first time for trying the plating thing. Maybe they sent you copper instead of brass by accident. Or perhaps it just plain sucks.