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#1
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I am going to save your little story for the next time someone crows about how their radios & TVs run perfectly with original electrolytics. May be true . . . for a while.
If my cap order arrives today, I'll be doing the same chore on my CTC-11. The old electros have held up during initial tryouts, but I'd like to be able to watch it without one hand hovering over the power switch ![]() Phil Nelson |
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#2
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Quote:
I've done the "pair of caps in series" to replace 450V caps. A pair of 250V caps, same capacitance, with 1 watt 1 megohm resistors across each cap, to be sure the voltage divides evenly across the pair. Mounted them on terminal strips under chassis, leaving the old caps unconnected but still present.
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#3
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Mattdavala's story is appropriate for your situation in that he didn't test the electrolytics, or rather only tested them by feeling them. It still doesn't change my opinion of the procedure I used.
But having said that, I still feel that you'd be better off changing all of yours. My 1-108 chassis Sylvania shares many of the same vintage parts that your 1-387 does. While I didn't change all of the electrolytics, I found many that were bad or questionable. They either had high leakage or a high ESR or both. This was especially true for the horizontal section. I think you can expect the same even though your set is a couple of years younger. Bringing the set up slowly with a variac may let the electrolytics reform, but without testing them you still don't know the state of their health and they may cause problems and prolong your trouble shooting. I would at least replace all of the electrolytics that are not vertical can mounted ones. If you keep those, I would add fuses where appropriate to protect the transformer. John |
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