My 1st Predicta

[DaveWM]

replaced the vert out socket, should have done that in the 1st place, very easy. I 1st solder wicked 90% of the solder from around the pins, then busted up the plastic from the top so the pins were no longer locked together. then using a solder iron I just put light pressure from the bottom one each pin one at a time, they just popped out, clear of the board.

The replacement socket was an exact match pin and size, but better built.

I used a round tool to ream the holes clean (just enough pressure to clean the remnants out of the way) and the new socket pops into place, the pins expand once its thru so it holds itself in. Use the solder iron again an its done. Nice a tight. I retest all the resistance measurements (this time with the tube in place and using very light pressure so as simulate actual use), all test good. I tap the chassis on the bench some to shake it up and knock any loose debris off, then go over it once more looking for bit of solder or any other stuff (trying avoid any FOD) plus that should be a good stress test.

hook up the crt/tuner, plug in and voila works and all the damper and vert can be messed with with no problems at all. I need to check over on last tube a little 7 pin job, that is also easy to get at. If it is even slightly intermitant I will not hesitate to replace it as well.

I hope to work on cleaning up the metal chassis this weekend, will prob use some navel jelly to get the surface rust out (the inside is rusty the outside is pretty good, not perfect), then have to figure out if I should try to paint the inside or just leave it bare. I figure it should not rust given it will be inside.

Still pondering taking it to a paint buddy to strip and repaint the red cabinet, and what to do about the rusty brass plated uprights.

Most likely will just reassemble and enjoy as is (well after getting the dirt dobber nest out).

[bandersen]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

...Still pondering taking it to a paint buddy to strip and repaint the red cabinet, and what to do about the rusty brass plated uprights.

Most likely will just reassemble and enjoy as is (well after getting the dirt dobber nest out).

I used rust remover on mine, then just sanded down the existing paint rather than strip it. A couple coats of primer, wet sanding then a couple finish coats.

I have rusty metal arms too. I got as far as sanding down the pitted brass plating, but that's it. I might just use some metallic paint. It should prevent rust and can always be stripped and replated down the road.

Here's some pictures if you're interested. http://www.flickr.com/photos/7003980...585480/detail/

[DaveWM]

That's inspirational, was that a particular brand/color paint?

I don't have a dud, I wonder if hawkeye has one so I dont have to spend extra just to find and send one. My crt is fine, but I also would like a spare.

How the heck to you reattache the anode to the crt? right now I just have an extenstion wire up to it for testing, I could not see how to get it back on without removing the shell (and is that difficult?).

[bandersen]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

That's inspirational, was that a particular brand/color paint?

I don't have a dud, I wonder if hawkeye has one so I dont have to spend extra just to find and send one. My crt is fine, but I also would like a spare.

How the heck to you reattache the anode to the crt? right now I just have an extenstion wire up to it for testing, I could not see how to get it back on without removing the shell (and is that difficult?).

Thanks, but it doesn't work - not even close I gave up on it about a year ago. Since then I've picked up a spare chassis and CRT. I'll get back to it someday.

I used Rustoleum protective gloss enamel #7762 'sunrise red'. I don't think it's quite right though - maybe a touch darker like #7765 'regal red'

I did remove the shell. The only thing I had trouble with is removing the two little screws that hold the brass cover plate on. I've heard folks often have trouble with the spring that's underneath too.

That's a NOS 17DAP4 I picked up (my original CRT is fine too). I'm pretty sure it's a very good substitute for the original 17DRP4. You can get either one here.

[DaveWM]

hmmm mine has a 17DAP4 installed with a philco sticker and all. I wonder why the schematic calls out a 17DRP4?

[bandersen]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

hmmm mine has a 17DAP4 installed with a philco sticker and all. I wonder why the schematic calls out a 17DRP4?

Dunno - mine has the Philco sticker too, but it's a 17DRP4 (10L43 chassis). I think the specs on the two CRTs are virtually identical.

[DaveWM]

Speaker was shot to heck, found a donor from an old zenith. got the speaker back installed in the front grill, will bolt it all back together this weekend.