Digging into the CTC-9

[leadlike]

Thanks-

I set it at 24kv, making the flyback a little warm after a couple hours of running. I have yet to adjust the flyback current. The schematic claims there is a fixture on the chassis for attaching your meter to while doing this adjustment-not sure where that is supposed to be.

I made up some crummy line art in paint and burned it to dvd-grids, horizontal lines, dots, etc. I did a bit of a convergence setup, but not surprisingly, it is a serious pain to do. I don't think I am getting any response out of the 3 slug coils on the board at all.

With the guidelines on establishing color balance, I adjusted for best picture while keeping G2 low. This has produced a magnificent picture,though there is still the occasional scene where I want to crawl back to the chassis and turn down the green a bit more. Where before the set only had a watchable picture with brightness and contrast all the way up, All of the controls are more or less in the middle position. If it weren't for fear of burning up the flyback (ie getting hv dialed in right) and having the convergence properly done, I'd say this thing was looking really good.

[peverett]

I have some early 1950s Hoffman B&W sets. The safety glass on these is true safety glass with the embedded plastic layer.

[jr_tech]

Originally Posted by peverett

I have some early 1950s Hoffman B&W sets. The safety glass on these is true safety glass with the embedded plastic layer.

Ditto on a late 40s RCA that I checked. The safety glass on my '53 Philco does not have the embedded (PVB?) layer, but is nearly 1/4" thick and appears that it could be tempered... pretty strong hunk of glass.
How thick are the curved shields that have been removed from the bonded color CRTs ?

jr