![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
Corona dope? No, I am not calling names
...General cement made/or makes a thick gooey black paint (in a small bottle with an applicator brush) that is painted over the problem areas. This may still be the "product of choice" for these problems... don't know... people might be using RTV or something else these days. jr Update: Looks like the stuff is still available... even listed on Amazon (with awful shipping charges): http://www.amazon.com/GC-Electronics.../dp/B000B62YO8 Likely it can be found cheaper elsewhere. Last edited by jr_tech; 10-22-2010 at 12:07 PM. Reason: Add link to Corona Dope at 'zon |
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
I have used GC corona dope with great results, but on smaller areas than this flyback.
People talk about recoating entire flybacks with RTV. If you search the forums, those discussions should turn up. I assume the arc is jumping to the bracket because that's the closest path to chassis ground. You want to seal up the fly where the spark originates, of course (i.e., not paint over the bracket). Again, I would not power up the set at all, or only for a very brief period, before restoring the insulation. I would inspect that flyback very carefully before covering it up. Let's hope the arcing has not damaged the flyback. Phil |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
Alrighty, well I think I can probably get some RTV around here somewhere. My only concern would be how to get to the flyback so I can work on it. It has a few wires connected to it that aren't easily removed from the chassis, such as the little plastic cap on top of the horizontal output tube. Should I actually desolder these from the flyback? I guess I'll see how much I can reach by just taking the screws out first.
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|