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#1
11-14-2010, 06:42 AM
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The components in play are:
1- burned up Flyback Transformer 2- Door Knob capacitor 3- Width Coil and 15K resistor 4- 1B3 Socket 5- Arc Ring on the 1B3 Socket 6- Resistors: 470K, 2.2 ohms on the 1B3 socket. 7- Fuse socket topside 8- Phenolic board that the 1B3 socket sits on. Most likely even if the Flyback did not burn up, you would still have to rebuild that high voltage area. These sets have arcing issues I've been told and mine did too. You may have carbon on the Phenolic board and you might as well go ahead and replace it. The 1B3 Socket is Bakelite - I had lots of arcing issues with mine and I replaced it with a Ceramic socket and cut out the carbon arc area. Been better if I had just replaced the Phenolic board with a new one. Looks like your Door Knob capacitor is OK. Your Width coil might be OK. Mine was fried and I replaced it with a MWC-4 -- or Miller 6199-a. Replaced the 15K resistor too. The Arc Ring on the 1B3 should be OK. The Resistors needed to be replaced anyway. I think the Flyback is a Merit HVO-11 or HVO-6. Check your schematic. If you can find the Flyback, the rebuild should be relatively easy and it will look nice and neat when done. Might as well replace the 1B3 tube too. Mine had carbon arc traces on it between two pins. 1B3's are cheap enough. I learned the hard way that you cannot have any sharp points on solder connection and paint it with lots of Corona Dope. BTW, mine in its day had the Flyback replaced and it was mounted on the top of the Chassis. You might want to relocate yours there too. Topside will give you more options in choosing a suitable Flyback as there is more space there. Reflecting back on all my arcing issues I had with the HV area, I would recommend a total rebuild of everything in the HV - replace the Phenolic board, use a Ceramic socket for the 1B3, replace all the resistors, and put in new HV wiring. Mine was a bugger with arcing and I think I could have saved a lot of aggravation by replacing the Phenolic board from the get go. BTW, if you decide to scrap the TV and that picture tube is a good 16EP4, I may like to purchase it. Carl
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CW 1950 Zenith Porthole - "Lincoln" Last edited by cwmoser; 11-14-2010 at 08:12 AM. 
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#4
11-14-2010, 12:18 PM
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Thanks to everyone for the information. Here are some additional pictures of the HV transformer and one of the chassis. CW, if I can find the needed parts, I want to keep this set because the cabinet and chassis (other than the HV transformer) is in very good shape. It would be really nice to have the set going to play some old Christmas shows on near the end of next month but that's questionable at this time
Last edited by VA561; 11-14-2010 at 12:23 PM.
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#5
11-14-2010, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Like you, my plans are to play some Christmas classics on it this season. If you are interested, here is the saga of my restoration: http://www.cerant.com/ZenithPorthole...ortholeTV.html Looks like you will be going though much of what I went through. I thoroughly enjoyed the journey. Carl
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CW 1950 Zenith Porthole - "Lincoln" Last edited by cwmoser; 11-14-2010 at 01:44 PM.
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#6
11-14-2010, 02:55 PM
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Did you get a good 16EP4?
I would suggest removing that white plastic channel drum while you work on the chassis. That thing has 3 plastic spokes and are easily broken. You also need to be very careful when sliding the chassis back into the cabinet, as that drum needs to clear a hole in the cabinet.
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#7
11-14-2010, 06:02 PM
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As usual, very helpful advice from everyone. The picture tube passed all tests on the Sencor crt analyzer. Filament set, H-K shorts, G1 shorts, cutoff and emissions tests were all good. If anyone can help locate a replacement for the high voltage section, I would greatly appreciated it. It it would be nice to locate the complete section if possible.
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