Atwater-Kent 70

[bandersen]

I'd be PO'd about the tubes too. I've noticed most of the primo tubes have been liberated from radios in the local antique shops.
Including the pair of 183s that should have been in my Sparton Jr

[Red Raster]

Originally Posted by bandersen

I'd be PO'd about the tubes too. I've noticed most of the primo tubes have been liberated from radios in the local antique shops.
Including the pair of 183s that should have been in my Sparton Jr

Quite often have i seen radios without Peanuts, Kellogs, UX201As and other increasingly exotic tubes.

[sanford12]

These are really nice performing radios once you get them going. Picked one up at a ham fest a few years back but I was lucky that ir came with all the tubes. The cabinet was shot. Yours looks to be in very saveable shape. If I remember right the tuning was done by a rubber grommet on a toothed gear? Had to cobble a new grommet from some Ace hardware stuff that was close.

[droptop]

IIRC the can with the loose top contains the filter chokes. The dome top can next to it is the power transformer and the filter caps are in the other large box directly behind the power transformer. You are correct- the chassis just slid into the cabinet and had an oblong keyhole shaped wood block that swiveled on a screw into the shelf near the rear center of the chassis. Slide in the chassis and then rotate the block up to the edge of the chassis to hold it firmly in place. I’ve seen many of these with the speaker dangling out the back of the cabinet- usually at auctions where they don’t know or take time to look inside the cabinet. There was a paper attached to the floor of the cabinet showing how to mount the chassis and speaker but many times it's missing. I may have one around here somewhere that I can scan. Let me know if you need it and I'll look.

Majestic was another company good at bolting in the chassis but just letting the power supply sit loose in the cabinet. I’ve seen a few of these come flying out as well- even after mentioning it to the auction help.

I’ve found certain diameters of heater or manifold vacuum hose works well for the dial drive. Measure the distance between the pulley and the serrated edge of the dial plate for thickness and take the pulley to the auto store so you can match or get close to the thickness and ID of the hose.

[holmesuser01]

Thanks, Drop Top. Where are you in Tennessee?

I got a nice package in the mail on Saturday afternoon, just as the snow began to fall. It was a pair of 45's well wrapped in bubble wrap in a good cushy box, courtesy of Dennis K. over at ARF. They are both RCA Radiotron tubes with orange print on the bases. Both have paper labels stating when they were tested. One tested in 1933, and the other in 1938. Both test around 70% on my tester, and both of them come up fast when I apply power. I sure dont mind that they are not the globe style.

I just assumed the tall box was the transformer. I'd have seen whats what if I had gone ahead and pulled the cover off the bottom of the chassis.

Thanks for the information about the tuning system, too, and the repair proceedure. That will come in handy.

The new-to-me 45's are installed on the chassis. It looks better. Pictures to come.

One thing: There is a small bundle of wires coming up the right side of the chassis looking at it from the back of the set. I think there are 3 wires here. They are laying cut down the chassis and go into the set in the area of the UX-227 / 56 tube. Maybe its a phonograph input? It's not named in Ryders, and may have been added by someone. I'll find out when I take the chassis bottom cover off.