The Emperor is full of hacks (25MC46Z)

[Carmine]

I pulled out the other set and realized the chassis' are entirely different... So I'll just have to deal with the hacks.

As you can see, the insulation is missing where it goes under the metal tube socket. I don't want to wad this up with electrical tape as was done previously. I will instead make the proper mechanical repairs to the tube cup so that it isn't drooping onto the flyback tire.

However, that doesn't solve the lack of insulation problem. Let's say I salvage some HV wire from an old monitor, etc. What would be the proper way to splice this into the flyback wiring? Obviously solder, but are there proper HV butt connection insulators?

Also not the copper-looking thing inside the shunt tube? It's all distorted looking. I'm sure it doesn't mean much, but it struck me ad odd.

[ctc17]

Watch my video on subbing an rca flyback out with a packard bell fly. You really dont want any splices in any of those wires. Order a few feet of that wire and do it right.

[fsjonsey]

Originally Posted by Carmine

I pulled out the other set and realized the chassis' are entirely different... So I'll just have to deal with the hacks.

As you can see, the insulation is missing where it goes under the metal tube socket. I don't want to wad this up with electrical tape as was done previously. I will instead make the proper mechanical repairs to the tube cup so that it isn't drooping onto the flyback tire.

However, that doesn't solve the lack of insulation problem. Let's say I salvage some HV wire from an old monitor, etc. What would be the proper way to splice this into the flyback wiring? Obviously solder, but are there proper HV butt connection insulators?

Also not the copper-looking thing inside the shunt tube? It's all distorted looking. I'm sure it doesn't mean much, but it struck me ad odd.

Looks like the plate material on that tube is delaminating. I've seen it happen to 7591's before. It's something to do with the alloy used in that time period.

[Carmine]

Originally Posted by ctc17

Watch my video on subbing an rca flyback out with a packard bell fly. You really dont want any splices in any of those wires. Order a few feet of that wire and do it right.

Dan, I watched your video. Definitely applied to what I'm going through, although I see you did end up with a splice for testing purposes.

Well, you could say I learned something on this TV. I never knew that the flyback "induced" the voltage into the filament.. I always thought it was some kind of direct connection. (I've never had sets with flyback problems, so never had a reason to get that in-depth into the system.)

Knowing this, it seems that I can repair this fairly easily once I can get the proper wire. Looks like I'd need somewhere between 2-3 feet of it. I doubt I could salvage that much from a more modern monitor, etc. so I need a source to buy some of this wiring new.

Anyone care to recommend a source? What is the actual name of the wiring I need? "High voltage filament wiring"?

You can see it's pretty well burned up all over the wiring. I don't know how someone could put this mess together in good conscience just patching it up with electrical tape.

[andy]

...

[zenithfan1]

Chesters in Kenosha has that wire you need, they will sell whatever length you need for a reasonable price. www.chesterelectronics.com

[dieseljeep]

25 plus years ago, when I was doing part time TV repair, when I found an arced thru HV rectifier winding I would just cut the leads short and tape them securly. Then I would use a solid state rectifier tube sub. The customer prefered it because it wouldbe a lot cheaper repairing it "properly".

[Carmine]

Originally Posted by zenithfan1

Chesters in Kenosha has that wire you need, they will sell whatever length you need for a reasonable price. www.chesterelectronics.com

Thank you for finding that supplier for me. I was just about to order some wire when I found an early 70s Zenith tube set in a basement at an estate last weekend.

I waited until the last minute, but it was obvious this TV was headed to the big dumpster in the sky, so I harvested its organs. If it makes anyone feel better, the front of this set had a high plastic content, and wasn't anything special in terms of remote/cabinet style, etc. I felt a bit less guilty when I unhooked a brightener from the CRT.

I took the whole chassis, knobs tuner tubes, convergence assy. and purity rings. The HV section yielded me an extra flyback, (below) and enough soft wire to make the repairs seen below. All for just $5, and I suppose somebody could still make a nice aquarium.



New wiring is tan, rather than blue.



I'm thinking the old HV cup was clear plastic so the wiring could be inspected on the assembly line? Either way it helped me be sure the connections remained solid after all the mechanical movement.



Also replaced the 2nd Anode lead. It's all buttoned-up now, and the HV rectifier no longer rests on the flyback (used new screws to secure the socket assembly) I had to use some rubber washers to suck up the excess length, but I figure they can only act as further insulation.

[Carmine]

Further note... Something I had noticed years ago and was reminded of when I recycled these parts.

My set is uses a HV rectifier tube with a glass base and "miniature" style tube pins. The newer set uses an "old-fashioned" loctal(sp?) plastic base tube with thick pins. This seems a step backwards in technology.

What do you think the reason might have been? Arcing between the smaller gaps of the newer-style tube? More contact surface for high voltage on the older-style tube pins?

Just wonderin'...

[batterymaker]

Sheesh. Some butcher's made lamb-cutlets out of that thing. Hopefully it'll be a heavy duty performer once you've straightened it out.