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Old 04-08-2011, 11:36 AM
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Phil Nelson Phil Nelson is offline
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I'm guessing it won't require much work to have that looking good after you fix the cataract. Seems too nice to tear up for parts. I actually like the basket weave grille with vaguely Danish style legs. It's amazing what people use JB Weld for.

Not an expert on flybacks, but I recently used sensor safe RTV to coat a 1950s Philco flyback and it's holding up OK.

Phil Nelson
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Old 04-08-2011, 02:59 PM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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Any of you ol' RCA mavens remember that factory-issued field mod to the CTC-20 for weak vertical sync? It involved changing two resistors in the sync separator section. They were half-watters somewhere between 270K and 680K, IIRC.
Bill(oc)
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Old 04-09-2011, 12:16 AM
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vintagecollect vintagecollect is offline
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Interesting set,

I've seen old ads somewhere of $495 specials for lower end roundies. I doubt this was too thrifty, NICE cabinet quality. Dial and benzel very similiar to early RCA SS. This is a unique transition piece before ss.

DOES this have any ss components??? It only helps with reliability.
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1977 Zenith Chromacolor II
A Very Modern Zenith
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Old 04-09-2011, 08:52 AM
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marty59 marty59 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagecollect View Post
Interesting set,

I've seen old ads somewhere of $495 specials for lower end roundies. I doubt this was too thrifty, NICE cabinet quality. Dial and benzel very similiar to early RCA SS. This is a unique transition piece before ss.

DOES this have any ss components??? It only helps with reliability.
Not really except for diodes in the usual places: LV and B+ Boost rectifier, detector stages. But it does have a transistor in the UHF Tuner which had become standard practice by this time.

These sets were produced around the 1966 timeframe. This one that I have has date codes of 66-30 on the CRT and the tubes were earlier . The Howard Sams was published 9-66 as folder 837-2.
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:34 AM
ctc17 ctc17 is offline
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My idea for rewaxing flybacks is to remove the tire, submerge the coils in a pressure cooker full of molten wax, put the lid on, pull the pot into a deep vacuum for a few minutes then slowly release vacuum remove lid and coils and let cool. That should get all the air out of the coil. Its basically how the factory does it.
I dont care if its dangerous, Ill do it outside with the proper protection.
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