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#1
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I just looked at the specs on the 1n400x series and those are really for 60hz. Im sure they will work but some fast recovery shottkys would be better.
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#2
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ok I have some 1N4148's that I will use.
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#3
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got the new degausser guts in (CL-90 and VDR). Replaced 3 color amp coupling caps .01 one was very lossy (would barely open the eye) the other two were not so bad, open about 80%, I figured I would do'em all.
There are 3 100k resistors that couple the plate from the color amp to the CRT, two of them look a bit toasty, and have decreased in value to 80k the ohter is 110k, so I will replace all 3 as well. I still need to check the HOT coupling cap. After that I may hook it back up and see how its doing (hope I have not messed anything up). I did see where the focus lead from the focus rectifier tube had broken, prob due to the way it bounces around with out the cage to hold it all steady. easy fix but just a reminder to look over work well (I found it while I was degreasing all the wiring harnesses). |
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#4
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the .01 horz coupling cap was about 10-15% away from fully opening (fuzzy like those other .01 I just did). These are brown dipped caps. the one that tested very bad had turned a bit dark almost black on the very top. It sat next to one of the large color amp tubes, and I suspect got a lot of heat, perhaps that is what does them in. Still no leakage at all.
I went ahead and checked a couple sections of two of the other cans, both tested fine for both value and leakage, maybe just a bit slower to open in the leakage than a new cap, but they did fully open. I am leaning towards not doing any but for the doubler which was not orig, and I dont know if it was even for the correct rated value or voltage, I would have to peel off the masking tape to see. I did pick up some 1.5" heat shrink today, will use that since I cant seem to locate a proper can cover. will of course have to make a cardboard disk for the top. Done for the nite will try it out tomorrow to see how badly I have goofed it up. |
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