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  #1  
Old 06-16-2011, 09:52 PM
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Zenith6S321 Zenith6S321 is offline
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Perhaps the two pin male plug is a power on/off circuit to allow the TV chassis to remotely control the power chassis? And the is two pin socket above it a convenience power outlet to plug your VTVM in?
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Zenith6S321 View Post
Perhaps the two pin male plug is a power on/off circuit to allow the TV chassis to remotely control the power chassis? And the is two pin socket above it a convenience power outlet to plug your VTVM in?

I looked at the 2 pin thing, and it's wired into the heaters of all the tubes with some really thick wire. I suppose it's possible that the heater circuit is the 2-pin, and the rest is B+ type stuff on the 7-pin one.
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:16 PM
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Zenith6S321 Zenith6S321 is offline
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There are some pictures, by Harry Poster, of an RCA prototype set that looks like this set showing the CRT mounted. It even shows the black tape. Link: http://www.earlytelevision.org/rca_color_prototype.html
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:14 AM
Mal Fuller Mal Fuller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zenith6S321 View Post
There are some pictures, by Harry Poster, of an RCA prototype set that looks like this set showing the CRT mounted. It even shows the black tape. Link: http://www.earlytelevision.org/rca_color_prototype.html
Isn't that interesting? Is the CRT serial number a match to your prototype, Nick?
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:49 AM
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Isn't that interesting? Is the CRT serial number a match to your prototype, Nick?
They are one and the same.
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Old 06-17-2011, 02:04 PM
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Despite my misgivings about tampering with this set I very much want to see it operating again
No point in letting it sit around until the CRT finally goes to air and is useless.

Thinking about the historical importance of this thing is inspiring, Every one of the billions of CRT based Color sets in the world can trace it's DNA back to this set (along with the few other RCA Prototypes).
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Old 06-17-2011, 02:07 PM
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One more idea, if the tube is gunned the same as a 15GP22 perhaps it would be a good idea to hook it up to a CT-100 chassis and see if it'll actually light up?
If nothing else it would be an interesting glimpse of the Phosphors used.
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miniman82 View Post
I looked at the 2 pin thing, and it's wired into the heaters of all the tubes with some really thick wire. I suppose it's possible that the heater circuit is the 2-pin, and the rest is B+ type stuff on the 7-pin one.
So you don't actually have the power supply for this set? Did it go missing? And won't that slow down getting it going?
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:28 PM
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It should be possible to make a replacement power chassis. If a schematic could be found it would help.
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:58 PM
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It should be possible to make a replacement power chassis. If a schematic could be found it would help.
However that puts to rest the question of whether to recap it or leave in non-working survivor condition. The whole bottom chassis is going to be all-new.
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Old 06-16-2011, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MelodyMaster View Post
So you don't actually have the power supply for this set? Did it go missing? And won't that slow down getting it going?

No, and there's no reason to expect it will ever turn up. No one knows where it is, so it is assumed missing. Something like that would be very common looking anyway, so it probably was either tossed or repurposed for something else. It won't really slow anything down, other than the time it takes to build a new one. It's easy to trace the wiring, and figure out what voltages need to go where. I figure I'll start with an old console amp chassis, install a suitably large power transformer, and use the sockets for the rectifiers. Maggie chassis are plentiful, so that's what I'll probably use. That, or I'll strip the old organ chassis in the next room.
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Old 06-16-2011, 11:25 PM
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Found the heater string connections: the 'main' part of the chassis, that is, everything that is not tuner/IF related, gets it's 6.3 volts from the small male 2-prong plug on the back. The tuner/IF strip is powered from pins 1 and 6 of the 7-pin round plug, with pin 1 connected to chassis ground.
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