Can re-stuffing

[stusnyder]

Originally Posted by Daave

Dayum I can't get enough heat on the ground lugs that attach the can to the chassis without the chassis sinking all of the heat! Even with a 100w iron or a small open flame torch.

This is the beast I use for chassis soldering, the dollar bill is for size comparison.

[Daave]

Thanks for the info!!

I did (finally) remove the one 4 section cap because it was in a recessed part of the chassis and I couldn't get a good angle on the saw, but I did do one other (and plan to do the rest) by cutting it off in place, right at the base and feeding thru the leads. It worked well! And looks good to me.. I didn't want to put all these big caps underneath and have to reroute wires, etc

Now what does a dried up electrolytic look like? I mean one 4 section vertical cap guts came out real easy (no heat) and it felt dryish but it wasn't crumbling apart. The single filter cap in the power supply on the other hand was very moist and damp and took heat to get the guts pulled out.

This is my first time ever trying this I just watched a bunch of youtube videos

[DaveWM]

great. did you use one of those bone saws i was talking about, they are often sold as a mult tool for cutting in hard to get spots.

[Daave]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

great. did you use one of those bone saws i was talking about, they are often sold as a mult tool for cutting in hard to get spots.

I used a hack saw blade removed from the saw. Its what I had and worked OK.

[DaveWM]

well if you ever come across one of those saws I am describing, you will love it, you can plunge cut straight into the cap. They are not cheap but if you do a low of cans its worth it, IMHO.

[DaveWM]

http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CHUQ8wIwAg

this is it, mine was not cordless.

[ChrisW6ATV]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

http://www.google.com/products/dremel+multi-max

this is it, mine was not cordless.

Dave-

How loud is that device? I have one of the Harbor Freight ones that you can buy for $20 with a coupon often, and it is extremely loud, bad enough that I will not use it without a pair of protective earmuffs on. I never tried mine for capacitor beheading, though.

[stusnyder]

Originally Posted by Daave

Now what does a dried up electrolytic look like? I mean one 4 section vertical cap guts came out real easy (no heat) and it felt dryish but it wasn't crumbling apart. The single filter cap in the power supply on the other hand was very moist and damp and took heat to get the guts pulled out.

They are suppose to be moist and damp. When they are dryed out thats when they fail. I suppose sometimes they are not sealed 100% and eventually dry out.

[Daave]

Everyone Likes Pics

Dont laugh its my first time

[Buzzsaaw]

Just make sure you do this outside.. Man.. it stinks! I usually put them in an empty Peanut butter bottle to keep the smell out of the house and I suppose a Zip lock bag would work.

Make sure your soldering iron is properly "tinned" good to conduct heat to the twist lugs through the solder wick.

Just a couple tips for what it's worth.
Good luck and Merry Christmas!

What is that smell anyway.. WhooooF! A-rack-a-rich!

Buzz

[kvflyer]

Yes, they do stink! But the only females that live here are feline. And they don't complain.

[Daave]

I did it in a garage, in my part of the world its -3 outside this time of year hah

[Phil Nelson]

Originally Posted by Daave

Now what does a dried up electrolytic look like?

Here's an extreme case:



Appearance is not a reliable guide. The failure rate for old electrolytics -- even those that seem OK at first -- is very high, and the cost of new ones is low. They fail in much newer equipment, too. I recently repaired a 1984 TV that I had bought new. Three or four electrolytics had bulging tops and one had burned off its plastic insulation. My ESR tester found several more bad ones. If the electrolytics in 1980s TVs are failing, small wonder that 1950s electrolytics have turned to garbage.

Phil Nelson