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Old 01-23-2012, 11:31 AM
Eric H's Avatar
Eric H Eric H is offline
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The yoke on my Admiral is tight too, warming them up a little with a heat gun or through operation sometimes makes it a whole lot easier to get the tube in/out.
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:05 PM
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bandersen bandersen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old_coot88 View Post
Yikes! Lucky none of the wires broke off where they enter the glass.
I have had that happen once before and was able to carefully file around the stump and was able to attach a new lead. Not at all fun

Quote:
Originally Posted by kvflyer View Post
One thing I have seen before and Bob, you may be the one that posted it, is that you can tack solder some longer pieces of wire on to the existing leads to assist in threading those wires into the correct pins. I have tried to do that with the leads the length that you show and it was almost impossible.

Please keep us posted...
Yes, that's exactly what I ended up doing. While doing so, it occurred to me it's a lot easier to thread the thin wires through the base pins and then solder them onto the CRT leads. previously, I soldered the wires on and then threaded them through the base.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zenith26kc20 View Post
... If possible, I would put the CRT back in without the base and install the base afterwards ...
Excellent suggestion! I wish I had read it before putting the base back on

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric H View Post
The yoke on my Admiral is tight too, warming them up a little with a heat gun or through operation sometimes makes it a whole lot easier to get the tube in/out.
That's how I got it off initially. I guess I didn't use enough heat this time.





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Old 01-23-2012, 05:40 PM
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Looking good Bob Those resistors again huh? They seem to be failing on a regular basis like capacitors now. Oh well at least it was that not the CRT.

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