Just Found an Admiral 1402

[Don Lindsly]

Tuner is a weak spot. It is a big rotating disc that breaks loose from the shaft. It is usually repairable by pinning and/or epoxy. Make sure the disc is on the correct position and take some tension off the detent spring when done.

The Sangamo electrolytics are terrible. I see after market caps tacked in. Restuffed electrolytics will clean up the insides.

Note ion trap position before removing the CRT. The set is a decent performer and should turn out well.

[Rusty34]

Thanks for the replies and tips, much appreciated. More questions now though:

Would you do a short a baseline test after replacing the power supply caps but before going through all the caps and resistors in order to find out if there is any working order first? I don't have any experience with selenium rectifiers or the nasty failures I've heard about but I wonder why a past service tech soldered diodes in parallel with the original rectifiers? I just noticed it still has most of the original Admiral branded tubes. Should I test the CRT before initial power up? Don't have a CRT tester yet and don't know what to look for. What do you suggest? I do have a TV-7/DU and a Heathkit TT-1 and a Tektronix 453. Sorry about the model number mix-up. I edited my post to correct the mistakes but am unable to correct the title in the list of threads.

Do the missing rabbit ear parts ever show up for these?

Thanks, Rusty