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Old 03-31-2012, 11:31 PM
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josephdaniel josephdaniel is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Texas / Missouri
Posts: 462
.15 sounds much better. doing the paralell thing i can replace all of the filter caps for under 7.00 and if it dosent work i have several projects going on right now that need a few 10's. This better work!
I have all of my parts picked out on mouser and im going to order them tommrow morning!
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:08 AM
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marty59 marty59 is offline
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Arlington, Tx
Posts: 915
Not sure on this chassis, but pay attention to what the B+ Boost cap is and how it is wired in the circuit. Most times it will be tied to ground or in my case it "floats" between the B+ and B+ Boost sources. This will dictate a non-polorized application! However, good luck in trying to find a 10uf@400v non-polar!!

Although some may understandably cringe, you can tie two electrolytics together in series and connect the negatives together. For my 10uf application, I used two 22uf@450v as capacitance decreases in series, getting the desired value. This is "acceptable" but it's always best to use designed non-polars if possible. My Howard Sams in the parts description lists this as an alternative also.

I've run the set considerably and the cap(s) run cool and work as intended.

As for that .15@400v cap, it's got boosted/pulsed B+ on it and ties to the plate of the Damper Tube. IMO I would use a good quality orange drop and step up the voltage rating to 600V.
I've got a good stock of these and if money is an issue I'd be glad to send you one!
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