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  #16  
Old 11-04-2011, 05:28 PM
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holmesuser01 holmesuser01 is offline
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Nice score. I look forward to progress on it.
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  #17  
Old 11-04-2011, 10:38 PM
Billzimm2 Billzimm2 is offline
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Thanks Bob, I will take a look at those riders. Also if you need more pictures of that screen or even if you want to borrow it for a while to get some made, let me know. I'd be more than willing to ship it down to you for awhile.
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  #18  
Old 12-08-2011, 11:30 PM
Billzimm2 Billzimm2 is offline
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I'm sorry that I haven't given any progress updates in awhile. Holidays are a very busy time for me and I haven't had much of a chance to work on this set. I got the cabinet out of my upper hallway along with the chassis and moved it upstairs. I'm a little confused with the Sam's schematic and I need some help. I'm trying to work out what capacitors I need to order. JustRadios seems to be very convenient and I am also trying to compare prices on Mouser. The problem with Mouser is that there are too many capacitors to choose from. Could someone point me in the right direction here and let me know what I should order? I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,
Bill
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  #19  
Old 12-09-2011, 05:43 PM
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bandersen bandersen is offline
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When I'm search for electrolytics. I go to Mouser's capacitor page and apply some filters.

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Compon...ors/_/N-75hqt/


For example, check stocked, select 82 uF, 450 Volts and Radial style.

You'll get this page of only four choices - all pretty good. http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Compon...z0vl82Z1z0z7l5



Here's what I ordered from Mouser for the similar 20X1 Admiral chassis. Note that I like to restuff the electrolytic cans so get long skinny radial caps (both leads coming out one end).
If you're going to install the new electrolytics under the chassis, you might find it easier to use axials (one lead out of each end).

I also round up the capacitance to the closest value and try to go a little higher in the voltage rating.

C1 - 80mfd @ 450v, 40 mfd @ 450v, 20 mfd @ 450v

Mouser #: 647-UPZ2W820MNY9 Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 450V 82uF 730mArms +/-20% at 120Hz
Mouser #: 647-UPZ2W470MHD Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 450volts 47uF 12.5X40 20%
Mouser #: 647-UVY2W220MHD Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors 450volts 22uF 12.5x25 20% 5LS

C2 - 20 mfd @ 450v, 60 mfd @250v, 100 mfd @ 25v

Mouser #: 647-UVY2W220MHD Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors 450volts 22uF 12.5x25 20% 5LS
Mouser #: 647-UPZ2G680MHD Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 400volts 68uF 12.5X40 20%
Mouser #: 647-UPJ1H101MPD6 Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 50volts 100uF 10x15 20%

C3 - 40mfd @ 250v, 40mfd @ 250v

Mouser #: 647-UPW2V470MHD Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 350volts 47uF 18x35.5 20%


As for the paper caps, I live to use polyester film either Cornel Dubilier (axial) or Cornel Dubilier / Nichicon / Panasonic (radial and cheaper). I just go with 630 volts for all. Here are some examples.



0.047 @ 630v axial http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Compon...z0sq4zZ1z0z819
0.047 @ 630v radial http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Compon...z0sq4zZ1z0z7l5


Hope that helps.
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  #20  
Old 12-12-2011, 06:12 PM
7"estatdef 7"estatdef is offline
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Hi Bill
I have an Admiral that is a bit older than your set but the condition of the chassis is about the same or worst. It had a lot of rust. I pulled it a part and used a wire wheel on it then gave it a coat of gray hammertone paint.
Looks great! Before: http://www.flickr.com/photos/4277432...n/photostream/
After: http://www.flickr.com/photos/4277432...n/photostream/
GL
Terry
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  #21  
Old 12-12-2011, 08:50 PM
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stusnyder stusnyder is offline
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Hey Terry,
nice job on that chassis. When I got a real ugly one, I put it in a cabinet glass beader, does a nice job. Here's a philco chassis that was pretty bad, blasted and then painted.
http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...28&postcount=4
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  #22  
Old 12-12-2011, 09:00 PM
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Eric H Eric H is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billzimm2 View Post
Two more pictures: One of the mess left inside of the cabinet and one of the top of the chassis out of the cabinet. Well thats about it for now. I will hopefully have time to clean out the cabinet tomorrow.

Thanks,
Bill
Your set has been home to a critter, probably a Mouse or a family of Mice.
I would definitely not use compressed air to blow it out, no telling what bacteria lurks in there.

I'm working on a similarly infested set now, I washed it with Bleach first and then soapy water, several times.

Generally speaking mild soap and water will not harm the chassis provided it's allowed to dry thoroughly before attempting to power it up and you avoid getting paper parts such as labels and Capacitor Covers wet.
(Filter Cap covers are especially bad, they instantly disintegrate if they get wet!)

I spray a heavy coat of Clear paint or Lacquer on the paper labels to give them some water resistance.

Care has to be taken around the power transformer so it doesn't get water inside because it's very difficult to get out.
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  #23  
Old 12-15-2011, 09:09 PM
Billzimm2 Billzimm2 is offline
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thanks for the capacitor advice. I will make a list and order them very soon. Also thanks for the additional advice guys. I will scrub the chassis down once I get it on the bench. It is really cold outside now and I live in an apartment so I don't really have a hose.
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  #24  
Old 05-06-2012, 04:11 PM
Billzimm2 Billzimm2 is offline
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Well its been months since I gave you guys an update. I have switched jobs and have been too busy with other projects and things to work on this set. I have put it back together and will wait until it gets warmer out so I can clean the chassis correctly. Stay tuned folks.
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