Rca ctc-5

[DaveWM]

getting there, I brought it in the shop, put the chassis back in and started setting it up (I had swapped in a replacement CRT, so I knew it would require a full setup)

In the process of adj the yoke for level I got bit pretty good. seems the outside of the CRT cover is not grounded very well. Perhaps thats just the way it is with these 21AXP22. I will confirm that all my grounding straps are in place on the CRT cover hold down AND the connection the the chassis is good. From what I can see the only connection to the chassis is a pressure connection from tabs on the front of the CRT mount that press into the chassis on the front.

I had a heck of a green neck shadow that I could not seem to correct without upsetting the purity. I never got the purity perfect anyway, I could get the red blob right in the cener with nice blue and green blobs around it, but when I moved the yoke forward I could not get a pure red screen, the bottom was the problem. I have not yet futz with the screen magnets nor tried degaussing (My 1st 21AXP22 set) so I will have to figure out how to adj the perimeter magnets so they are retracted and give it a proper degausse. This set is def a bit trickier than the later roundies I have worked on.

I need to get a handle on this hot yoke first. I did not try and measure it but the metal plate is def sparking up when grounded.

[DaveWM]

shoving the chassis up tight against the front of the set seems to have solved the grounding issue of the yoke, need to look into that a bit better. Maybe scuff up the chassis and the springs that make the contact and make sure all is clean. I am a little bit surprised there is not ground strap directly to the chassis.

[DaveWM]

I was not able to get the bezel out of the way, I can get the top out (the 3 spring clips that hold it in) and the side are not retained but the bottom is not budging. I looked at an old bezel that was loose and I see two holes that I assume fit over pegs on the bottom but can not say for sure.

Wingate owners please comment on how to remove.

[DaveWM]

while fussing with it I decided to check the voltage at the horz out fuse, was around 12v IIRC, now its more like 7.5 right on the money per the schematic



during the intial setup I checked the blue screen purity (after getting the red as good as I could) the green was good but the blue was TERRIBLE.. I tried turning up the drive which helped but it was not just weak but more blue/green.

during a prelime setup of the center convergence I noticed the blue was way out, so I tweeked the blue lateraly, bingo blue not only converged but overall was much brighter. seems the blue lateral must have been causing the really bad purity also.

all this is just me messing about, I know I need to do a proper setup using the instructions which are a lot more complicated than what I have seen in other later roundies with later convergence boards.

[Steve D.]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

I was not able to get the bezel out of the way, I can get the top out (the 3 spring clips that hold it in) and the side are not retained but the bottom is not budging. I looked at an old bezel that was loose and I see two holes that I assume fit over pegs on the bottom but can not say for sure.

Wingate owners please comment on how to remove.

Dave,

Remove the pencil box knobs. Remove the pencil box. This wll reveal, at the top of the opening, two spring loaded metal inserts that hold the bottom of the bezel in place. Take a small flat blade screwdriver and place into the insert and push down. You can do one at a time. This will release the insert from the bezel. Reverse the process when replacing the bezel.

-Steve D.

[DaveWM]

ah thanks Steve, One of them was missing the little metal clip, but I am pretty sure I can just pull it with some needle nose, the other one moved easy.

[DaveWM]

well the one missing the little clip is really in there tight, maybe that is why the clip is missing....

I don't want to damage the wood by a half ass approach with the needle nose so I will have to see if I can machine a tool to fit under the head of the pin and allow me to pull down. Dang so close.

[DaveWM]

got it with some hemostats, bezel out, glass out, magnets fully CCW so tomorrow I can do a degauss, thanks again to Steve for the hints. I hit the little mech with some lube so it should go easier next time.