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#1
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Here's an excellent treatise on the arcana of flybacks in general. It addresses the impracticality of trying to rewind them.
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/flytest.htm#flydis |
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#2
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If you have a bad flyback from some other but similar set, where the HV winding is still good, in theory you could remove from the bad flyback the bad lower voltage windings until you have only the HV winding. I'd leave the cardboard layer just under the HV winding, to avoid destroying the fine wire turns (take care when you disconnect the bottom of the HV winding, with that fine wire). Now with the flyback with the bad HV winding, remove all of the HV winding. You'll have to disassemble the flyback, and keep careful track of the spacers used to make gaps in the ferrite core, as you need to put them back. If you get lucky, the good HV winding will fit over the other windings. But most likely it won't, but you could place the HV windings next to the other windings. Just be sure it mechanically fits, with plenty of clearance for the outer rim of the HV winding.
I never tried this, just thinking out loud. About 35 years ago, just out of college I was working on SS video monitors, converting one to operate at 31KHz scan rate. But we needed to get the flyback time down, and we removed the HV winding. This cut the flyback time by about half. We needed it short, to avoid overscan of the video image. We used a separate HV power supply for the CRT.
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#3
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Just brainstormin' a bit more on the tripler issue.. Never done it, but supposin' you could find a good flyback from a SS set that uses a tripler. Take the HV winding off from it, and graft it onto the subject fly in the manner described by Wa2ise above. Seems like that oughta keep the resonance of the 'hybrid' intact. Like i say, just musin.
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#4
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Some of the later RCA 19" tube-type series string sets, and the Zenith 4-tube sets use triplers in their original design.
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