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#1
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Last edited by andy; 12-05-2021 at 08:00 PM. |
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#2
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I hate those machines. Back when I was willing to work on these, I usually would clean the mode switch, and if there was anything still wrong I would just use zip ties to lock the mechanism in the stop-eject position and hope the TV would still work. And those end sensors are a royal PITA!! I have had to work on the machines almost in the dark to keep stray light from tripping the sensors.
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#3
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On those later ones that the deck ribbon cable was soldered to the main board, I could still separate the board from the deck enough to slip in a new take-up clutch and mode switch. The earlier ones with the sensor LED that would fail, man I must have fixed hundreds of those. And the bad clutches that would leave tape hanging out upon eject. Good stuff!
The TV section seemed pretty reliable though. I recall a lot came in with the picture vertically stretched and had to use a modified remote to access the adjustments. Last edited by Ed in Tx; 06-13-2013 at 09:32 AM. |
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#4
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Just remembered! The LED down under the prism opens and shuts the set down also. Remove the prism and use a cell phone camera to look at the LED. It can see the infrared. If the diode is dim or out, use one from an old remote.
Cell phone cameras work to test remotes also! If all the info here now doesn't repair it, tell it "If you don't work on the bench, work on the floor! Pitch it to the floor!! |
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#5
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Quote:
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| Audiokarma |
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