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Old 07-20-2013, 11:17 AM
jmetal88 jmetal88 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Derby, KS
Posts: 252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Nelson View Post
I wouldn't waste money on a CRT tester or alignment equipment at this stage. Many TVs can be successfully restored with nothing more than a soldering iron and a simple multimeter (which tests resistance, voltage, etc.).

This article tells how to test whether a tube is a dud using a multimeter:

http://antiqueradio.org/FirstStepsInRestoration.htm

Many TVs come back to life with nothing more than recapping and basic cleaning (tube pins, controls, etc.). If you don't have a lot of spare room or money, I'd hold off on buying stuff that you might not need.

This page lists various TV restoration articles that you might find interesting in a general way, although none of my sets is exactly like yours:

http://antiqueradio.org/televisions.htm

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html
Well, this'll be my second time fixing a tube TV, so I was mainly thinking for the future if this becomes a major hobby for me. For the first set I worked on, I used a lot more guesswork than I should have and ended up throwing off the IF alignment because I didn't know what I was doing, which is what got me thinking about getting more appropriate testing equipment. My dad has a general-purpose tube tester that I used when working on my first set, but it has no capabilities for testing a CRT.

I do really appreciate those links though, and I'll be sure to give them consideration when starting work on this set!
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:09 PM
Chip Chester Chip Chester is offline
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Posts: 761
I realize you've achieved your stated goal, but here are a few more tips on moving fragile things for future readers:

If you can move it in a passenger vehicle, the ride will be much smoother for your treasure. Minivan with the middle seats removed gives you secure, weatherproof storage with appropriate hold-down locations.

Use non-elastic hold-downs if you're not resting the device on a cushion/absorber. So, if you're tied to the vehicle, make sure it can't move, and then "snap back" due to bungee cord elasticity. Better to be secured so there's no movement possible.

If you are placing it on cushions, then bungees may be appropriate, if loaded correctly.

If you're moving one small item in a truck that rides harshly, load it down with some other well-secured, heavy items. That way the suspension is more forgiving. Same with trailers -- a good load will help control bouncing and harsh impacts.

And finally, like noted in earlier posts, spend most of your effort on controlling sudden deceleration movement. Second, side-to-side. And finally, movement due to acceleration. The last one is the one that's most in your control.

Glad you arrived with minimal damage, and happy fixin'!
Chip
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