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#1
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I bought these off ebay and they were noted as being NOS. They sure don't look used and are a newer cream colored board instead of the old brownish (I'm so bad with any color other than primaries). The boards are the updated versions of the originals, but they can't be much newer as they also have plug in transistors.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
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#2
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looks like a capacitor has leaked on the traces. steve
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#3
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I'll check in the morning and see if I have your transistor. Cheers,
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Brian USN RET 22YRS (Avionics/Cal) CET-Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
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#4
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Okay, the new boards aren't cream color (I was going from memory). They're actually white and green. Here's a pic of the one I installed. The bad transistor is the one with the screw hole just behind large orange capacitor.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
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#5
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so you still did not look into the horz blanking? that would have been the 1st place I would have checked.
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| Audiokarma |
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#6
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experience but as I suspected unneeded.............. The Sams is in front of me & I am redy to rock & roll ! 73 Zeno
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#7
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is this the 25dc56? I assume so,
I would look at the diode and blanking transistor, as well as the voltage divider in front of that. Scope the fly pulse all the way thru the two blanking transistors. |
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#8
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I'm doing the best I can. I'm new to this and am doing the things I can do/know how to do. If those don't work, then I can start to tackle the harder things. I don't own a scope, so I'll have to borrow one. I've read through the SM and don't fully understand how to test the blanking circuit, etc.
I'm willing to go all the way in testing an fixing you you're willing to help and understand I'm pretty new to all this. ![]() My first fix is to undo something I just did. If this problem sounds familiar, yell. After changing the horizontal board and caps, I now have a strange effect on the screen. It's hard to explain, but I think if you've seen it before, you'll understand. There are invisible waves rolling diagonally across the screen towards the upper left corner for a moment. They then stop and reverse direction rolling down towards the lower left. They stop again and reverse. The closest I can give an example of is when you're adjusting the APC to get the movement out of the color bars, except these aren't colors rolling, just invisible waves. I'm not sure if it's the what I did, or some other interference that's being introduced. The chassis is the 25EC58 and if you want to point to things to test/replace, please fire away! ![]() Thanks!
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
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#9
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Sorry, I don't have one. I go from 121-500 to 121-758, nothing in between. Cheers,
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Brian USN RET 22YRS (Avionics/Cal) CET-Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
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#10
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No problem. Just found out there's an old electronics shop a few miles from me that has lots of older stuff sitting around. I'm going to make a list of parts and call to see if they have them.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
| Audiokarma |
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