Videokarma.org

Go Back   Videokarma.org TV - Video - Vintage Television & Radio Forums > Solid State CRT Televisions

Notices

We appreciate your help

in keeping this site going.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-14-2013, 02:18 PM
TinCanAlley's Avatar
TinCanAlley TinCanAlley is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: So Cal, CA
Posts: 1,008
Quote:
Originally Posted by andy View Post
The core is probably cracked (I hope you weren't using a metal hex key). If you can remove it (you'll probably have the break it up) you can replace it with one of similar length from just about any old coil.
Well at first I tried every tool that come with the plastic alignment set I purchsed, but nothing would fit. I then found a small torx driver that fit and worked like a charm. All three coils adjusted just fine until the blue reached the end of its travel up. Once there, it wouldn't turn to go back down. I know you're not supposed to use metal tools, but there wasn't anything I had or could find that wasn't metal to do the adjustments.

So I should remove the coil from the board and get the core out? The bottom is just a small hole and the top seems to have some kind of stop. If I break the core, will the replacement core get past whatever is stopping the current one from coming out?
__________________
Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL

Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-14-2013, 03:10 PM
TinCanAlley's Avatar
TinCanAlley TinCanAlley is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: So Cal, CA
Posts: 1,008
Good news. I found out from Talon Electronics that the coil I'm looking for S-87341 has been superseded by S-73854 and they have them for 5 bucks. Since I was already about to order a bunch of OEM transistors and diodes, I just added on the coil. Should have it here by Saturday.

Sometimes things just work out.
__________________
Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL

Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-14-2013, 03:11 PM
andy andy is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 4,004
...

Last edited by andy; 12-05-2021 at 07:56 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-14-2013, 03:26 PM
TinCanAlley's Avatar
TinCanAlley TinCanAlley is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: So Cal, CA
Posts: 1,008
Quote:
Originally Posted by andy View Post
A Torx screwdriver will definitely crack those cores sooner or later. Even with the proper size plastic tool, you have to be gentle.

The core can normally just screw in and out fully with nothing stopping it. If you have to, you can always enlarge the hole at one end.
If it were to screw completely out, it would be from the top. The bottom hole is about 3/16 or less while the top is about 5/16 or more (to lazy to do exact measurements).

You wouldn't happen to know where I can get a nice set of alignment tools and non-conductive as well?
__________________
Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL

Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-15-2013, 08:05 AM
zeno's Avatar
zeno zeno is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 4,918
Quote:
Originally Posted by TinCanAlley View Post
If it were to screw completely out, it would be from the top. The bottom hole is about 3/16 or less while the top is about 5/16 or more (to lazy to do exact measurements).

You wouldn't happen to know where I can get a nice set of alignment tools and non-conductive as well?
For diddle sticks.
http://gcelectronics.com/order/SubCa...%20380-387.pdf
For hex tools there are 2 common sizes. The Zenith uses the
most common on & there is a smaller one sometimes used.
Also a square one for RCA. Screwdriver ones are mostly used in JP sets
& small radio.
Another tool that are almost a must have is a LONG 1/4" (#8)
nutdriver. Xcelite used to make it. About 30" long with a
magnet, gets to screws holding tuners & deep in anywhere.
Be sure a used one isnt worn. Should be lots of NOS around.
They also made a yellow handled one (dont remember size)
and a phillips. The phillips is essential for some old JP sets.

73 Zeno
Reply With Quote
Audiokarma
  #6  
Old 08-15-2013, 10:29 PM
Findm-Keepm's Avatar
Findm-Keepm Findm-Keepm is offline
Followin' the Rules...
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,857
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
Another tool that are almost a must have is a LONG 1/4" (#8)
nutdriver. Xcelite used to make it. About 30" long with a
magnet, gets to screws holding tuners & deep in anywhere.
Be sure a used one isnt worn. Should be lots of NOS around.
They also made a yellow handled one (dont remember size)
and a phillips. The phillips is essential for some old JP sets.

73 Zeno
I used to sell Xcelite - the nutdrivers were prefixed as follows:

P - Pocket (P8=Pocket Red=Pocket1/4")
Number only = 5" (nominal) shaft (8=standard length Red=1/4")
HS - Hollow Shaft, beefier, but bulkiness limited their use.
L = Long = 10" (nominal) shaft
LL = the longest, as you mentioned, the LL8, also available back then in the yellow, and through special order, the green.

Now it's all 99-series if you need longer lengths or magnetic tips in most sizes. The pocket, and standard (5") are being produced, and the L8 and L10 nutdrivers are also being produced.

Xcelite's XST-series (Xtra True Tip) Phillips screwdrivers are the best. I have a set I bought in 1983, still going, in all sizes and lengths. Best tool investment I ever made. Sadly, not made anymore.

Cheers,
__________________
Brian
USN RET 22YRS (Avionics/Cal)
CET-Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88)
"Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79"

When fuses go to work, they quit!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-16-2013, 11:50 AM
TinCanAlley's Avatar
TinCanAlley TinCanAlley is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: So Cal, CA
Posts: 1,008
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
For diddle sticks.
http://gcelectronics.com/order/SubCa...%20380-387.pdf
For hex tools there are 2 common sizes. The Zenith uses the
most common on & there is a smaller one sometimes used.
Also a square one for RCA. Screwdriver ones are mostly used in JP sets
& small radio.
Another tool that are almost a must have is a LONG 1/4" (#8)
nutdriver. Xcelite used to make it. About 30" long with a
magnet, gets to screws holding tuners & deep in anywhere.
Be sure a used one isnt worn. Should be lots of NOS around.
They also made a yellow handled one (dont remember size)
and a phillips. The phillips is essential for some old JP sets.

73 Zeno
Well then it looks like I make the right purchase the other day. Spent some time searching as many ways as I could figure in order to find them. I ended up finding the 9 piece set from the company in your attachment. They should be here early next week. Just in time to adjust the new coil I am installing.

I'd love a long nut driver. What I've been doing is putting together all of my bit holders together to make a long one. Only issue with it is that it flexes like crazy and I have to hold it about 2" higher on the back end so the head is at the level of the fastener. LOL!
__________________
Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL

Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-17-2013, 07:21 PM
TinCanAlley's Avatar
TinCanAlley TinCanAlley is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: So Cal, CA
Posts: 1,008
Well the new coil worked like charm. It's an exact replacement.

I managed to get the convergence touched up, but the darn blue lines on the left and right (especially right) side of the screen do not curve like the red and green. If they would just bend up about 1/4 inch or so, the convergence would be about perfect. Oh well.
__________________
Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL

Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:57 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
©Copyright 2012 VideoKarma.org, All rights reserved.