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Old 10-03-2013, 02:53 PM
TinCanAlley's Avatar
TinCanAlley TinCanAlley is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: So Cal, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Username1 View Post
Yah, I would like to know what the voltages are on that driver transistor....
No need for the scope, the shape on the output looks ok, so no need.
q803. Follow the trace to the next component if its more convenient to take a voltage reading. You can measure off the resistor, that 40 ohm, just get the side that goes to the transistor... Same with the base, get it off the r814, one side is ground.... 180 ohms another 5% resistor...

That 40 ohm resistor says it should be 5%, but its off by more than 10%..... close to 20% off.....
Any discoloring on that resistor....

Was that HV Transformer arcing? did you add that silicone to the HVT?
Do you have any idea if the HV to the picture tube is on target, high or low...?

If you were to take out the HOT and check the voltage at tp5, does it come back to normal....? Not sure if you have run the set without it in there or not....? Not entirely sure if its safe, I would think it is....
The RTV, I believe, is factory. Doesn't look like it's ever been disturbed. It's also on the tripler end.

I don't have an HV probe, so I couldn't tell you. This makes me think of something I've been meaning to ask. Whenever they talk about safety they get on the fact you need to discharge the CRT at the anode. They say to use a screwdriver connected to ground. So I take a long screwdriver, clip an alligator clip lead to it and clip the other end to chassis ground. I then slip the tip under the cap and touch the connection. They say you should hear a "snap" and should do it a couple of time. I've done this several times while working on this set and not once this it make a noise or give any indication that it discharged. Last time I took out the chassis I just turned off the set, pulled the plug and in less than 3 minutes later I tried to discharge and nothing.

When I killed the HOT the other week, I ran the set without it (was the only way to keep the circuit breaker from going. I don't see why I couldn't remove it and measure T5 again. Do you want just a DMM voltage or a scope waveform?
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