Should i bother restoring a zenith?

[Kamakiri]

We can start a "metal cabinet Zenith club"!

I just got done with a recap on mine, and now I'm on the hunt for a yoke. Here's a link to my thread.....

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=259958

The picture doesn't show it well, but the cabinet on mine is almost a maroon color.

[Tubejunke]

Originally Posted by Kamakiri

We can start a "metal cabinet Zenith club"!

I just got done with a recap on mine, and now I'm on the hunt for a yoke. Here's a link to my thread.....

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=259958

Hey, will you check you horizontal "efficiency" coil and see if it is rigid or sort of flopping around as if the stem is cracked or something. I have pretty much been reassured that I need to change this as I posted about being able to reach in there and noticed it being sort of wobbly. However, I have not had opportunity to discuss this with someone with the same exact set,

If you have already buttoned up the access plate on the bottom, then don't worry about it, but if not it can be reached pretty easily.

Thanks

[old_coot88]

Originally Posted by Tubejunke

Hey, will you check you horizontal "efficiency" coil and see if it is rigid or sort of flopping around as if the stem is cracked...

If by some miracle the coil is still intact, i wonder if one could rig some kinda non-metallic pressure clamp to keep it that way(?).
If doable, the same could be done to preserve those blue coils on the convergence board.

[Tubejunke]

Originally Posted by old_coot88

If by some miracle the coil is still intact, i wonder if one could rig some kinda non-metallic pressure clamp to keep it that way(?).
If doable, the same could be done to preserve those blue coils on the convergence board.

That is what I have been thinking. I mean it should simply be a coil of wire with I assume an iron, movable core. If the plastic case has just hardened and cracked leaving it wobbly, I would think something like plastic epoxy or super glue would restore the structural integrity. AND if nobody has noodled with the adjustment, no further issues should exist.

Now this is saying a lot coming from someone who is asking someone else to look at theirs as for all I know they might have been wobbly from the get go, but I doubt it. Just saying I know little about it. The only reason that I found the condition is that when I brought the set home the first symptom I encountered was no high voltage along with the horizontal output tube having a red glowing plate. Not a good thing with these sets. The evidently delicate nature of the horizontal/high voltage circuitry and it's proper set up is what gives me such concern.

Anyway, tube investigation proved that almost all of the related tubes to these circuits were shot. I replaced them and then the set cam alive and seemed to be stable other than an odd sort of horizontal interference line running about 3 inches in from the left side of the raster. Not a bar, but a sort of jagged line. This line was the only thing that was less than perfect with one beautiful color picture until as I have mentioned, the color went out to black and white.

I will never forget how neat it was when I first applied full service drop voltage to the set. You could sit and watch things come to life after decades of dormancy. The most interesting was the color, which I didn't really expect to be as wonderful as it ended up being. It started as a pure black and white picture and I was pleased by sizes and linearity being spot on. Suddenly a small area near the center of the C.R.T. began showing sort of a swirl of color which slowly grew until the picture was full color. I didn't even have to mess with the Hue or other adjustments! What a good feeling!

Of course the color went away faster than it came to life, but I see that as being a minor issue. It's the power supply and sweep circuits that I think need full integrity and immediate attention. That goes for all sets really.....