![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
PVA= Poly Vinyl Acetate
|
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
Here's another question regarding not reintroducing a bonding material between the tube faceplate and the now-clean "safety glass": If most of you who have performed de-cat procedures don't replace the old PVA with something, but leave an air gap between the two, what's the point of reattaching the old front glass? Is it to maintain the extended radius of the tube face as it was when it left the factory and therefore fit the metal tube mask of the front shroud better or does it really matter in regards to this fit? Otherwise the whole reattachment process seems pointless given that the notion of "safety glass" has been defeated by leaving out the glue that makes safety glass work.
|
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
It does seem likely that the greatest amount of impact resistance is from the tube itself, which is under compression from atmospheric pressure. I believe implosion requires that a sufficient uneven force or tension be developed in some part of the tube. |
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
|
Not entriely unheard of, but some small rebuilder's didn't even re-install the bonded glass and not wanting to deal with PVA and that whole messy process. I have one such tube that's been installed for many years and I'm not concerned about it "imploding". I do prefer the more original look though, but it does make a sharp picture.
And I've seen (much) later rebuilds that had siliconed the faceplate in place, much as we do today. |
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
A little more to your point though is that the tube will bolt in as there is no "precision tolerance" in it's mounting and look good. And re-attaching the face does keep that original appearence and protect the "bulb" from getting scratched as mentioned. At least you can replace the front again if you need to and not risk any damage to the tube itself should something happen. |
| Audiokarma |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|