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  #1  
Old 08-01-2014, 06:57 PM
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radiotvnut radiotvnut is offline
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Looks like a "PC" chassis set. There's a 100 uf cap in the vertical circuit (near the vertical output transistor heatsink) that is a very common failure on these sets. When replacing, use a 100V high temperature (105 degree) capacitor. The originals were either 50V or 63V, 85 degree, and they failed often. Another high failure capacitor is the 100uf, 200V capacitor by the flyback. When it fails, it often burns up the horizontal centering control. I can't remember the value; but, there is another capacitor in the B+ line to the video output stage and if this capacitor opens, it will cause a smeary picture with one side of the screen being darker than the other. It will be a HV cap of at least 250V, probably in the 4.7uf to 22uf range.
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:59 PM
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rca2000 rca2000 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radiotvnut View Post
Looks like a "PC" chassis set. There's a 100 uf cap in the vertical circuit (near the vertical output transistor heatsink) that is a very common failure on these sets. When replacing, use a 100V high temperature (105 degree) capacitor. The originals were either 50V or 63V, 85 degree, and they failed often. Another high failure capacitor is the 100uf, 200V capacitor by the flyback. When it fails, it often burns up the horizontal centering control. I can't remember the value; but, there is another capacitor in the B+ line to the video output stage and if this capacitor opens, it will cause a smeary picture with one side of the screen being darker than the other. It will be a HV cap of at least 250V, probably in the 4.7uf to 22uf range.
Pretty sure the cap you are thinking of is a 100/250. And the 200Vline cap is either 4.7 or 10UF, 250V.

AND_-if this is a monitor-type set--it MAY be a "PM' chassis, similar to the PC, but with an SMPS supply on the side of the chassis and an AVIO package.
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  #3  
Old 08-02-2014, 05:52 PM
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zeno zeno is offline
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Looks like its a PM to me. I remember the set but not the guts.
Best to pull the back & find the chassis # & the mini-manual.
As far as caps go a recap is a fools errand. 'Lytics in the power
supply, vert & horz are 99% of the problems. Any others are
only suspect rarely on "modern" solid state sets.

GE which I hated actually built some very good sets in the end (1980's)
like yours. Nice to see some survive. I miss working on them

73 Zeno
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Old 08-03-2014, 09:24 AM
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zenith2134 zenith2134 is offline
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Was the PM chassis a real GE design or had Matsushita stepped in by the time they came out? I know the PC chassis was a real GE chassis made in USA. I had a nice clean 19" PC with electronic tuner from '84 or so.. It had excessive width, as its only problem, and 1 slip of the screwdriver took out the HOT. It's still sitting in the attic. I saved it because the thing looked like it had no hours on it.
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Old 08-03-2014, 01:53 PM
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zeno zeno is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenith2134 View Post
Was the PM chassis a real GE design or had Matsushita stepped in by the time they came out? I know the PC chassis was a real GE chassis made in USA. I had a nice clean 19" PC with electronic tuner from '84 or so.. It had excessive width, as its only problem, and 1 slip of the screwdriver took out the HOT. It's still sitting in the attic. I saved it because the thing looked like it had no hours on it.
PM was real GE. Basically a PC chassis with a separate switching supply
board. Used in better sets with comb filter, VIR, better audio etc.
The PC was no slouch, I loved them. Only a few things went on them
& they always looked damn good when done.

73 Zeno
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Old 08-08-2014, 09:44 PM
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Findm-Keepm Findm-Keepm is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radiotvnut View Post
Looks like a "PC" chassis set. There's a 100 uf cap in the vertical circuit (near the vertical output transistor heatsink) that is a very common failure on these sets. When replacing, use a 100V high temperature (105 degree) capacitor. The originals were either 50V or 63V, 85 degree, and they failed often. Another high failure capacitor is the 100uf, 200V capacitor by the flyback. When it fails, it often burns up the horizontal centering control. I can't remember the value; but, there is another capacitor in the B+ line to the video output stage and if this capacitor opens, it will cause a smeary picture with one side of the screen being darker than the other. It will be a HV cap of at least 250V, probably in the 4.7uf to 22uf range.
....C621. Real moneymaker for us back in the day. Original is a 100uf/50V Marcon, and yes, replace it with a 100V, preferably 105 degree cap.

Brian
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When fuses go to work, they quit!
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