Got some weird kit tv????

[Kamakiri]

Did just a base recap of the set, not including the filters. No change. No vertical sweep....the 6GF7 is still dark, and that's the key to the whole issue here I think.

Now, since I don't know what this set is and nobody else does either with any certainty, suggestions as to where I should go from here? I can do the filters, I just don't feel like it if that won't cure the issue

Normally right about now I'd start testing chassis voltages, but God only knows what this TV even IS to try to get a schematic for it.

[jr_tech]

Originally Posted by Kamakiri

No vertical sweep....the 6GF7 is still dark, and that's the key to the whole issue here I think.
--------------------------
Normally right about now I'd start testing chassis voltages, but God only knows what this TV even IS to try to get a schematic for it.

Well, for sure you need 6.3 volts on the heater pins of the 6GF7 (Pins 4&5) perhaps a wire is poorly soldered or missing, or the tube socket pin is broken/corroded. I would get some juice to the tube heater and see what happens.

jr

[old_coot88]

Originally Posted by jr_tech

Well, for sure you need 6.3 volts on the heater pins of the 6GF7 (Pins 4&5) perhaps a wire is poorly soldered or missing, or the tube socket pin is broken/corroded. I would get some juice to the tube heater and see what happens.

jr

Ditto that

[zeno]

Hows about a few chassis pictures ? Maybe we could ID it.
Could be it never worked, not rare on kits. We wouldnt
touch one even if it worked fine. Definitely get the
6GF7 lit up before doing anything else. Oh if its on a PCB
watch for poor grounds too. Usually where the PCB solders
to the steel chassis.

73 Zeno

[Kamakiri]

Originally Posted by jr_tech

Well, for sure you need 6.3 volts on the heater pins of the 6GF7 (Pins 4&5) perhaps a wire is poorly soldered or missing, or the tube socket pin is broken/corroded. I would get some juice to the tube heater and see what happens.

jr

Pin 4 seems to be the common heater voltage, it jumps between tubes. Continuity is good. Pin 5 goes to a disc cap, then to ground......

I could try replacing that disc cap I suppose.

[zeno]

Originally Posted by Kamakiri

Pin 4 seems to be the common heater voltage, it jumps between tubes. Continuity is good. Pin 5 goes to a disc cap, then to ground......

I could try replacing that disc cap I suppose.

Dosnt make sense. assuming 4 is "hot" 5 should go right to GND.
Check ohms should be 0 at pin 5 to GND.
May be a miswire here. If not sounds like the SKT.

73 Zeno

[old_coot88]

Originally Posted by zeno

Dosnt make sense. assuming 4 is "hot" 5 should go right to GND.
Check ohms should be 0 at pin 5 to GND.
May be a miswire here. If not sounds like the SKT.

73 Zeno

Gotta concur totally. That's assuming the heaters are parallel-wired and one side of the heater supply is grounded. If pin 4 is hot, then pin 5 has gotta go to ground.

[Kamakiri]

Originally Posted by old_coot88

Gotta concur totally. That's assuming the heaters are parallel-wired and one side of the heater supply is grounded. If pin 4 is hot, then pin 5 has gotta go to ground.

I screwed up. It does go to ground. It's hard to raise the chassis up with the picture tube in it, but I got a better look this morning. Going to check continuity on the pins of the tube with the tube pulled out slightly and see where I'm at.

[jr_tech]

Originally Posted by Kamakiri

Pin 4 seems to be the common heater voltage, it jumps between tubes. Continuity is good.

Just a WAG, but I suspect that the wire that is connected to pin 4 is *incorrectly connected* at the other end.... what tube and what pin of that tube does it connect to?

This is a real head-scratcher!

jr