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Old 01-08-2015, 01:45 AM
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tvcollector tvcollector is offline
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I removed the can and went over my work on the restuffing job and everything is wired correctly, even got out my tester and tested each lead to make sure each value is right.. I then hooked each cap to their proper leads directly then I ran each ground wire and connected all of them with alligator clippers to the chassis ground.. Looks like a complete mess, but it's only temporary.. Powered set up again and still the problem is there.. I removed the HV output tube when I powered up again and the crystal doesn't glow..

The can was really loose when I powered up the set after restuff job, so possibly may not have been making proper ground connection, or I could have done something to the other exposed caps when I flipped the chassis over to remove/install the second can.. I most likely burned something else out.. There is a small .001 cap that was connect to one of the terminals of the can to ground, I ended up burning it with the soldering iron.. I did check it afterwords and still tested within spec..

If anyone else has an extra can lying around I would probably take it.. I'm most likely going to Radio Shack tomorrow and buy a ground terminal strip and mount them on the bottom, at least with the one can.. May have to drill hole in chassis to install the terminal at a good place under the cans.. If anything I'll just leave the one can empty for looks..
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Looking for an all tube or hybrid color TV set from the late 1960s, early 1970s that's in a steal cabinet..

Last edited by tvcollector; 01-08-2015 at 04:48 AM.
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Old 01-08-2015, 07:47 AM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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a few things on cap replacement.

Can caps of that era are often fine, no reason to automatically replace unless diagnosis indicates a problem. As you have found out its not easy to remove without damage to cap. the same goes for the film type caps, most will be fine.
Diagnosis is the key.

If a can type needs to be replaced the best approach IMHO is to cut the can off at the shoulder (like you did) BUT do it in place, do not remove the can.
I use a dremel bone saw (my words) to do the cutting. Most caps can be reached with this reciprocating saw. These are often used for cutting door trim when installing flooring.

cutting the can off leaves the base and all the wiring (which often is extensive and may have parts like resistors and small caps attached to the pins) untouched. Leaving the lead dress alone makes it much easier for the next guy if nothing else.

Buy the new skinny caps from mouser, they fit much better the foot print of the base.

using a micro drill bit simply drill holes from the bottom of the base close to the remaining terminals and grounds, then install from the top the skinny caps, no need for extention wires/tape/hot glue or any thing else, the fit right in the foot print.

If you feel the need to replace the outer can, just use some alum duct tap about 3/8 wide to reattach the can.


with this method I can do a 4 section can from start to finish in about 20min.
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Old 01-08-2015, 02:15 PM
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Zenith26kc20 Zenith26kc20 is offline
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It sounds like a wiring error. Are you sure the capacitor is hooked as original?
Can you show a picture of the glowing crystal? It doesn't have to be glowing but I've never seen a detector crystal glow. They just flash and open. I've only seen that once due to a shorted IF transformer.
Does this capacitor supply the audio output transformer it's B+?
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