ctc12 clone beam current

[timmy]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

You don't seem to understand what I am saying

did you EVER confirm the bottom winding of the fly (please don't reference the sams again). I told you how to do this and squirrel boy expanded on it.

the blue wire from the yoke must be connected to the bottom winding of the fly.

what i seem to be misunderstanding is what you mean by the bottom winding of the fly, could you please tell me what tap to see on a schematic other then testing ohms for this bottom winding. the problem here is i follow the sams and this blue yoke wire appears to be in the right place and if we are not on the same page and i move this wire then i will have fireworks.

[timmy]

i have the miller paper from the focus coil and what it shows is correct for the way its wired and it shows what the taps are, fly , boost source, focus rect, and they are numbered and this is how it is now so with everything using numbers to identify where things go they are where they should be including the blue yoke wire, so maybe i am missing something here like this bottom winding if its the tie strap on the back of the fly where the focus coil get soldered to its numbered and it all checks out even in the rca diagram.

[Electronic M]

I think he means mean the electrical bottom rather than physical (just to try and be more clear).

[DaveWM]

I will try to make this as simple as possible.

1) disconnect the wires from the bottom two taps on the fly, I presume they are marked 1 and 2


2) use a ohm meter read the resistance from the horz out plate cap wire to one of the terminals, note the resistance.

3) without moving from the horz out plate cap wire read the next terminal that was disconnected, note the resistance.

I will tell you what next after you do this and report back.


For everyone else talking about CRT pin voltages, remember per Timmy with the CRT anode lead disconnected the MAX voltage he could get with the HV pot maxed out was 22kv (IIRC) this is with the shunt tube connected.

[timmy]

well if electrical bottom of the fly at the focus connections, nothing but that fly wire at the bottom is attached to the f coil and can be seen on the pic as well on page 8 the one above is attached to the blue wire down under the chassis. the same as i have here.

[DaveWM]

Originally Posted by timmy

well if electrical bottom of the fly at the focus connections, nothing but that fly wire at the bottom is attached to the f coil and can be seen on the pic as well on page 8 the one above is attached to the blue wire down under the chassis. the same as i have here.

ok I official give up (again). good luck with it.

[timmy]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

I will try to make this as simple as possible.

1) disconnect the wires from the bottom two taps on the fly, I presume they are marked 1 and 2


2) use a ohm meter read the resistance from the horz out plate cap wire to one of the terminals, note the resistance.

3) without moving from the horz out plate cap wire read the next terminal that was disconnected, note the resistance.

I will tell you what next after you do this and report back.


For everyone else talking about CRT pin voltages, remember per Timmy with the CRT anode lead disconnected the MAX voltage he could get with the HV pot maxed out was 22kv (IIRC) this is with the shunt tube connected.

ok will do that and then report back.

[timmy]

11.5 ohms top wire 10.5 ohms bottom wire both bare no connections on then tested with horiz cap as one test lead.

[Username1]

Hi! Sorry this question is pretty frustrating.

Timmy, I have never seen a flyback from this tv, From the pictures Bill put up
I'm thinking it comes with the tube socket, and a few of the delicate wires off
the transformer are already attached to something so they don't break.....
If so, then you have easily identified tie points.... But since we all can't see
the tv at your place, we need to be sure all the connections are correct.

One way to check is to look at the resistance of each pin on the transformer
and make the assumption that as you add wire to the device, resistance will
increase. To check that you begin with your ohm meter at a known point, and
then work away from that point and see if you get what you expect...

If you look at this transformer, point A and point B are the closest points but
the winding is the largest, so putting your meter across A+B you will get a
starting resistance.

Write that down A+B= ?

Then take the ohm meter lead from point B and put it on point C This will
be a new total: It ill be A+B+C= Your meter will be on point A and C for this total.

Write that number down A+B+C=?

Now this is the tricky part, the bottom of the transformer is D But the largest
resistance reading looks like it should be between A and F. Now to me
I think Winding D and F are a separate winding.

It looks like both bottom coils are center tapped, so since the both coils lower
than the center tap should be very short, and parallel to point Resistance
between point D and E should be very small..

Write down resistance D to E =?

Also resistance between C and F should be almost twice the resistance of D to E

Write down resistance C to F =?

This is one way to find the bottom of the transformer. We're trying to confirm that point D
has been connected where it belongs.... I would be ok if you had the old transformer
and we could measure the points off it, without dis connecting these points
to make resistance readings...... But since you don't, you might want to
make these checks....

But before you go, I want you to know I am still concerned with the lack of HV on
the tube after you power down the set.... To that point Have you ever checked to
be sure that the correct heater windings go to the right tubes of the 4 tubes right
there..... It may be possible that something wired wrong there would be a bleed
off the HV when the set powers off..... And I have also been trying to still look for a
good reason why the 1 meg ohm resistor feeding the focus voltage burnt in half.....

Good luck with checking this stuff. You are very persistant with this set.....

.

[timmy]

i dont know these resistances are very close and if i use what the sams says as a reference one is kind of high. hope im looking at it right one is 9.3 and the other 1.0 dont look like what i measured,hmmm

[DaveWM]

well I will try one last time since you answered the question.

the 11.5 is where the blue lead for the yoke should go it is the bottom of the fly. aka point D on SB's photo.

the 10.5 is point E in the photo.

[timmy]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

well I will try one last time since you answered the question.

the 11.5 is where the blue lead for the yoke should go it is the bottom of the fly. aka point D on SB's photo.

i think i need a drink but i dont drink ,lol,lol the 11.5 was the top and that is where the blue wire via connected under the chassis was and it looks like the same in bills photo, the top tab. so you are saying the lower ohms is where it should go, but it then changes the connection on the focus coil.

[DaveWM]

11.5 is the bottom of the fly ELECTRICLY REPEAT ELECTRICLY, ONE MORE TIME ELECTRICLY.

this is where the blue lead from the yoke should be connected. if it is then fine.

look at the schematic to you see the bottom of the fly, that is the ELECTRIC bottom of the fly. I dont know how to be more clear on this.

[DaveWM]

if you are saying you have it hooked up right, blue lead the the ELECTRIC bottom of the fly then I can offer no more insights other than making sure the focus coil is ELECTRICLY connected right. I am not sure if that could mess with the boost voltage enough to screw up the bias voltage to the shunt.

[timmy]

Originally Posted by Username1

Hi! Sorry this question is pretty frustrating.

Timmy, I have never seen a flyback from this tv, From the pictures Bill put up
I'm thinking it comes with the tube socket, and a few of the delicate wires off
the transformer are already attached to something so they don't break.....
If so, then you have easily identified tie points.... But since we all can't see
the tv at your place, we need to be sure all the connections are correct.

One way to check is to look at the resistance of each pin on the transformer
and make the assumption that as you add wire to the device, resistance will
increase. To check that you begin with your ohm meter at a known point, and
then work away from that point and see if you get what you expect...

If you look at this transformer, point A and point B are the closest points but
the winding is the largest, so putting your meter across A+B you will get a
starting resistance.

Write that down A+B= ?

Then take the ohm meter lead from point B and put it on point C This will
be a new total: It ill be A+B+C= Your meter will be on point A and C for this total.

Write that number down A+B+C=?

Now this is the tricky part, the bottom of the transformer is D But the largest
resistance reading looks like it should be between A and F. Now to me
I think Winding D and F are a separate winding.

It looks like both bottom coils are center tapped, so since the both coils lower
than the center tap should be very short, and parallel to point Resistance
between point D and E should be very small..

Write down resistance D to E =?

Also resistance between C and F should be almost twice the resistance of D to E

Write down resistance C to F =?

This is one way to find the bottom of the transformer. We're trying to confirm that point D
has been connected where it belongs.... I would be ok if you had the old transformer
and we could measure the points off it, without dis connecting these points
to make resistance readings...... But since you don't, you might want to
make these checks....

But before you go, I want you to know I am still concerned with the lack of HV on
the tube after you power down the set.... To that point Have you ever checked to
be sure that the correct heater windings go to the right tubes of the 4 tubes right
there..... It may be possible that something wired wrong there would be a bleed
off the HV when the set powers off..... And I have also been trying to still look for a
good reason why the 1 meg ohm resistor feeding the focus voltage burnt in half.....

Good luck with checking this stuff. You are very persistant with this set.....

.

the resistor that burned in half was the 100k across the f coil.