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  #1  
Old 01-27-2015, 09:17 PM
John Marinello's Avatar
John Marinello John Marinello is offline
<-- "Byron"
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Lake Murray, SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoPegs View Post
Realistically I think you can more or less just do some rats-nest wiring to an octal plug and some micro-grabber clips, and just use a "normal" tube tester. I'm fairly certain that it would at least do shorts/emissions with some level of efficacy.
And you base this on what?
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Old 01-28-2015, 04:00 PM
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NoPegs NoPegs is offline
The glass is -3dB.
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Amish Country PA.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Marinello View Post
And you base this on what?
Based on how my Accurate Instrument Co. Model 257 works if you want to "test" a CRT...


Here's the relevant manual pages for your perusal. (Linked due to size.)


http://www.funkengine.net/vk-img/2015-01-28/CRT-1.png
http://www.funkengine.net/vk-img/2015-01-28/CRT-2.png


Providing you know which pin is which position on the selector switches, and what pin of the tube you've connected it to, you should be able to at least go/no-go a tube in the field...

Armed with the data charts for my EICO-666, and a homebrew adapter, I think I could possibly come up with something that goes a bit further than toast or not-toast. The EICO-666 can actually come close to the appropriate voltages required for a real test of a CRT, the Accurate Instruments Co. 257, not so much. (That's why it says use the "DIODES OK" scale.)
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Old 01-28-2015, 08:35 PM
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John Marinello John Marinello is offline
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Get back to us after you have actually tested one.
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