My Brand New CTC-7!

[SwizzyMan]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

should be close to 400v right at the fuse.

you are using the correct fuses right?

Yes Oh I was measuring a filter cap terminal. I am new to some of this so please bear with me.

[DaveWM]

if the orig filter caps are still in, then there is a good chance they are leaky dragging the B+ down. The B+ readings help in this regard but there are other things that can drag down the B+

the cans are only near signal tubes, it would take a while to radiate enough heat from them, so it is quite possible you have a problem there.

there is also a rather large decoupling cap off the vert out primary, while not part of the power supply it certainly can be an issue.

If the B+ is suspect you should check the filter cans with a proper old school cap tester. If you do not have one of those its prob wiser to just go ahead and restuff them.

this is the method I recommend.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh2yurjt5sM

they maybe ok, but without the correct tester its hard to tell. If the B+ is ok (the 382v and the 270v) then they are prob ok.

I just like to find the problem and replace the part as needed rather than shot gunning. You learn more that way.

the method in the video is good since it leaves all the wire dress alone as well as the parts that are often soldered directly to the can terminals.

I can do a 4 section can in prob 10min. others use term strips but the prob there is if its done wrong it just makes it harder for the next guy to figure it out. Same with tacking caps in various places, yes it can work but its hard to follow IF it does not work.

[SwizzyMan]

well from what I think im getting the 270 is only 204v and i was getting this off of the hot filter cap so I think I will need to restuff them. Ugh

[DaveWM]

maybe, but since this set uses a doubler (no 5U4) you really MUST check the 400v side. if those 160uf caps are weak the B+ will be weak.

if the 400v side is ok, then that 1600ohm resistor must be getting smoking hot (connects the 400v to the 270v, another 70v drop would make it get real hot.

[SwizzyMan]

Also, what causes barber polling?

[SwizzyMan]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

maybe, but since this set uses a doubler (no 5U4) you really MUST check the 400v side. if those 160uf caps are weak the B+ will be weak.

Where would that even be located I tried what I thougt it was on the other filter cap and I got a loud pop and spark nothing was hurt though just scared me to death.

[DaveWM]

restuffing is easy, but you should practice on something before tackling the tv.

[SwizzyMan]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

restuffing is easy, but you should practice on something before tackling the tv.

Really dont have anything I could practice on.

[Phil Nelson]

There are different methods for replacing electrolytics and they don't all amount to restuffing. My recapping article (http://antiqueradio.org/recap.htm) has links to articles that illustrate various ways to skin the cat.

In my CTC-7 article is an explanation of how I left the original can bases intact and mounted the new electrolytics on them, as shown here:



Basically, you saw off the old can, drill little holes next to each terminal, slide the new cap leads down through the holes, and connect them up. If you don't care how the TV looks, you can stop there.

If you care about original appearance, you can pull the innards out of the old cans and epoxy them back on to enclose the new caps. In this case, I recommend that you leave the cans off until you have finished your restoration and you know that you won't need to change any power-supply wiring (or even read the values on the new caps to assure yourself that you didn't install a wrong value).

Phil Nelson

[SwizzyMan]

Thanks Phil. Will do! I did go in and replace some toasty looking caps in the chassis for good measure. Hopefully that might have helped a bit.

[SwizzyMan]

Ok there is a bit of improvement. The picture almost entirely fills the screen now and the horizontal hold is a bit better. But the colors are less vibrant and the focus is a bit worse. But the vertical hold and linearity are still horrendous.

[tvcollector]

I agree with Dave and Phil, cutting the cans like that makes it easier.. You can always use a little epoxy to remount the can, and probably a good wack will crack them open again if someone needs to get in them again.. I restuffed the cans for the first time on my GE set and I thought I did a wonderful job, I also watched alot of Bob's, Dave's, and Shango's videos on youtube before I even started restoring, so some things just came naturally...

[miniman82]

Don't expect much from the CTC-7 chassis before you've completely recapped the vertical and horizontal section, along with the power supply. Mine had wax dripping out of every single one, a sure sign they have bought the farm.

[SwizzyMan]

Would it be a good idea to try convergence and purity now? Or should I recap more?

[Phil Nelson]

Don't waste your time on color adjustments until you have a perfect (well, good enough to satisfy you long-term) black and white picture. Nice contrast and focus, correct vertical and horizontal linearity, etc.

Phil Nelson