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  #1  
Old 07-14-2015, 02:00 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Grab a schematic and a cap tester and see what that cap does and how it tests (we can't tell you exactly what is going on without that info). Odds are it is used for some menial filtering task that is non-essential...It probably shorted, drew enough current to vent and internally burn open one of the leads, and now sits there doing nothing since one of the leads is cut internally. I'd change that cap and any others like it...Bumblebee caps are nothing but trouble.
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Old 07-14-2015, 07:29 PM
Captainclock Captainclock is offline
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Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Grab a schematic and a cap tester and see what that cap does and how it tests (we can't tell you exactly what is going on without that info). Odds are it is used for some menial filtering task that is non-essential...It probably shorted, drew enough current to vent and internally burn open one of the leads, and now sits there doing nothing since one of the leads is cut internally. I'd change that cap and any others like it...Bumblebee caps are nothing but trouble.
That's the thing I wasn't able to find a schematic for it so I guess I'm out of luck...

Also what's rather odd is that the cap that vented was the only as you call it "bumblebee cap" in the radio the only other cap in the radio besides the filter caps is a standard paper and wax capacitor made by Sprague, and it seems to be in pretty decent shape yet physically.

Last edited by Captainclock; 07-14-2015 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 07-14-2015, 10:01 PM
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wa2ise wa2ise is offline
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Originally Posted by Captainclock View Post
That's the thing I wasn't able to find a schematic for it so I guess I'm out of luck...

Also what's rather odd is that the cap that vented
With that tube lineup, it's very likely that this schematic below is very close

The blown cap may be the one across the rectifier, or maybe across the 120V powerline. You do want to replace it.
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Old 07-14-2015, 11:38 PM
Captainclock Captainclock is offline
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Originally Posted by wa2ise View Post
With that tube lineup, it's very likely that this schematic below is very close

The blown cap may be the one across the rectifier, or maybe across the 120V powerline. You do want to replace it.
Close but no cigar, the radio in question has no pilot light, and only has 2 coupling capacitors, whereas the one in the schematic you posted shows a pilot light and at least 3 coupling capacitors of which none of them even close to the value listed on the paper cap that had the value listed on the capacitor case (which the paper cap that had the value listed in English was a .05 MFD 400 W.V.D.C. capacitor, and the one that was "blown" which used a colored pinstriping code was according to a capacitor color code chart I had used told me it was also a .05 MFD 400 WVDC capacitor but not sure how accurate it is) which is why it would be nice to have the actual schematic for the exact model I have.

For some reason Rider's had covered my 1951 Crosley 11-119U but for some reason they didn't cover the Westinghouse H-379T5-H-381T5 series of radios (which would of used the same chassis design) or any of the other H series radios made by Westinghouse for some reason...
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Old 07-15-2015, 12:09 AM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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What do the ends of the blown cap connect to?
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Old 07-15-2015, 12:31 AM
Captainclock Captainclock is offline
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Originally Posted by old_coot88 View Post
What do the ends of the blown cap connect to?
Well it doesn't appear to be attached to anything critical in the radio (its not attached to any tube sockets or anything related to the power supply), its just attached to two metal "poles" which have other components attached to them of some sort (you can see for yourself in the photos I've uploaded) which might explain why the radio is still functional even with the "blown" capacitor in place still.
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