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#1
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I did not see that one when I first took the cover off. Maybe it was replaced or maybe i missed it?
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Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring) RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored) RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored) CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring) |
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#2
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Ok the bumblebee has been replaced with an elmenco cap. Are those prone to failure? should I replace it?
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Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring) RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored) RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored) CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring) |
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#3
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Quote:
and yes white tube ceramic elmencos have been know to be problems, not like wax or bumblebee but enough that they should be suspected. |
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#4
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How exactly did you get the shield off the back of the IF board? My soldering iron is not melting the solder joints holding it in.
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Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring) RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored) RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored) CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring) |
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#5
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look at the pic its not the bottom
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| Audiokarma |
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#6
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There is a metal shield on the trace side of the pcb blocking me from getting to the pcb traces so i can take out the cap.
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Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring) RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored) RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored) CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring) |
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#7
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solder iron, heat stake, lift cover. if solder iron not hot enough you need a bigger solder iron or clip from top and j hook in new.
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#8
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I use a Weller Soldering station. Adjustable heat. It unsolders chassis shields without a problem. If the piece is too large for it I use an old electric gutter iron.
I don't remember the CTC9 having a shield on the bottom. It does have one on the top. |
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#9
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Would it be safe to put cans back on the restuffed filter caps? And should I put the chassis back in the cabinet and see if the new IF cap helps? Or should I tackle some more things with it first?
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Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring) RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored) RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored) CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring) |
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#10
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Quote:
http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=246148 |
| Audiokarma |
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#11
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Quote:
Phil Nelson |
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#12
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