1949? Motorola 10VT24R, TS-14B chassis

[ZackN920]

Thanks guy's for the info about the diodes. I didn't realize that when used as rectifiers that ya essentially swap there polarities. I had them in backwards for that funtion.
Hey Phil, when I talked about the suspicious caps, they looked plain bad. Side popping out if the one, another had the lead pop off when moved,yadayadyada. hey Tom, I'll have to look that up on a PC. It doesn't seem to want to work on the IPod touch.

Anyway's I put new E cap in place of the blown 147/160v unit. Also checked the diodes and they test good. I rewired them how they should be.
Should I replace the 100mfd cap as well? It got hot but didn't ooze it's guts.
I decided to try another power up. Had the dim bulb tester on it this time. Everything OK, so I upped the power and got a raster. In the form of a 1.5 inch horizontal line on the screen. I couldnt get it to fill the screen.

Well, I replaced most of the paper caps. Still have 3 bumble bees by the gang of e-caps. I decided to power it up again. Same basic response, except I seem to have better sound now,more shush since it has no incoming signal. No real improvement in the image. Still can't get it to fill the screen. My vert output tube is good. It's also wavy (like 60hz interferance) so Mabey that 100mfd is f'd up. I also noticed something I find very odd. The picture is it's brightest at about 85volts. When raised to 110v, the picture goes very dim. I have no clue what the deal with that is!?

That's where I'm at so far. Whatcha y'all think?...

[jr_tech]

Originally Posted by ZackN920

Should I replace the 100mfd cap as well? It got hot but didn't ooze it's guts.
<snip>
I replaced most of the paper caps. Still have 3 bumble bees by the gang of e-caps.
<snip>
Whatcha y'all think?...

I would replace any electrolytic cap that got reverse voltage, especially if it heated up.... and get those darn bumble bee caps out of there ASAP.

jr

[wa2ise]

Originally Posted by ZackN920

Thanks guy's for the info about the diodes. I didn't realize that when used as rectifiers that ya essentially swap there polarities. ...

It may be easier to visualize when you compare the diode to a vacuum tube rectifier. The end of the diode with the band is the cathode, the other end is the "plate". The cathode of the vacuum tube rectifier is the side that B+ comes from. As seen from the AC source, the power transformer secondary, there are two cathodes in series. One of those cathodes is the rectifier, the other is one or more cathodes of the various tubes doing the audio amps, IF amps, vertical or horiz outputs, and such.

Confusingly, some selenium rectifiers had "+" symbols next to their cathodes. As if to say "Connect this side to your B+ filter caps".