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Old 08-17-2015, 08:50 PM
rca2000's Avatar
rca2000 rca2000 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: cincinnati,ohio
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If you are seeing 104 volts on the fimamant pins...it is some sort of bias applied to the line. That is NOT the filamant voltage...it should be either 6.3 or 12.6 volts AC_-NOT DC..ACROSS the filamant....NOT to ground.

I had to help someone working on a commercial clothes drier today...the heater would not come on. he had measured 120 volts AC--to GROUND on EACH heater pin...but he did NOT realize...you have to measure ACROSS BOTH PINS..to get the right reading of the supply to the element !! He had chenged nearly EVERYTHING...the element..thermostats, limits, even motor and centrifiigual switch....STILL no heat. It took me maybe SEVEN minutes...to find an open switch on the timer. Measuring ACROSS the element reveeled NO voltage... and when the timer switch was bypssed FULL heat began to work fine !! he just said "I have trouble reading diagrams" and i let him know...I have known how to read diagrams since about TEN years old !! This guy has worke don this stuff since I was a CHILD...not really SURE HOW one can effectively repair things like this... WITHOUT knowing how to read a SIMPLE diagram...for a MECHANICALLY controlled clothes drier?

SO..my point is measure ACROSS BOTH pins --to see if you are getting filament voltage...and likely it will be AC. It iS possible that it is a seperate DC supply....but nOT likely on that cute little amp. I have a couple of those nicely-built players myself. One was a goodwill purchase for a long time ago...the other I think I got at an auction for nearly nothing some years back...
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