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  #1  
Old 09-01-2015, 11:06 PM
Don Lindsly Don Lindsly is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 450
Made sure all the rotary discs are firm on the shaft. Make a slight increase in the contact tension while the shaft is out.
Check for cold rivets on the discs. If the signal is better by touching the RF grid and bypassing the balun, then the balun is suspect. They were a common failure due to lightning and other stress. Look for an open resistor in the RF decoupling supply, usually around 1K to 2.2K. No plate voltage is a clue. The grid voltage divider resistors may go bad. Remove the tube and check values.

Check for proper voltages on the RF stage. Easily done with a socket extension or slightly rocking the tube to allow each pin to be tested.

Overall that TV is a hot performer and works much better than the E-Line 14 inch model.
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  #2  
Old 09-02-2015, 11:43 AM
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zeno zeno is offline
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Location: New Hampshire
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The balun will read near 0 ohms across the antenna input
AFTER the networks on the ant terminal board.
Each leg will also measure near 0 ohms to ground. Its
marked L1 on the schematic. Also test L2 for an open.
Cant tell by pic where yours is BUT they are usually mounted
outside the tuner on the rear. Usually standing up,
sometimes pointed back. Two antenna wires hook to it &
one wire goes into the tuner. In this case it may have been
built into the tuner. I have little experience with pre 60's
sets, they were quickly junked due to no UHF tuner.

BTW you can inject a signal as far as the RF amp GRID
using the center of the coax from an RF source. Be
SURE to use an isolation transformer.

73 Zeno
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  #3  
Old 09-03-2015, 06:56 PM
Doug66 Doug66 is offline
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Everything points to the balun being bad, as it measures open. During restoration, the signal kept getting worse until what I have now.

I have a few junk tuners laying around. Could I use the balun out of one of them, or do I need the correct part for that tuner?
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  #4  
Old 09-03-2015, 09:09 PM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is online now
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If this is a wafer type tuner, a not-uncommon problem was a stripped wafer, i.e., one of the wafers failing to turn with the shaft. Examine the wafers carefully while turning the shaft in both directions. Check for one that's sloppy on the shaft, or failing to turn altogether.
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  #5  
Old 09-05-2015, 09:19 AM
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zeno zeno is offline
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They all do the same thing except some have isolation
built in to them. Yours dont. Try one on it, cant hurt.
Check the wafer also as old coot says. We used to see
a lot of westinghouses with that. Used tooth picks & glue
to fix them.

73 Zeno


Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug66 View Post
Everything points to the balun being bad, as it measures open. During restoration, the signal kept getting worse until what I have now.

I have a few junk tuners laying around. Could I use the balun out of one of them, or do I need the correct part for that tuner?
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  #6  
Old 09-05-2015, 02:20 PM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is online now
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We used epoxy, after thorough de-greasing of the journal. Of course you gotta be super-certain it's in the correct position.
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