Philco E-3034 Tuner

[zeno]

The balun will read near 0 ohms across the antenna input
AFTER the networks on the ant terminal board.
Each leg will also measure near 0 ohms to ground. Its
marked L1 on the schematic. Also test L2 for an open.
Cant tell by pic where yours is BUT they are usually mounted
outside the tuner on the rear. Usually standing up,
sometimes pointed back. Two antenna wires hook to it &
one wire goes into the tuner. In this case it may have been
built into the tuner. I have little experience with pre 60's
sets, they were quickly junked due to no UHF tuner.

BTW you can inject a signal as far as the RF amp GRID
using the center of the coax from an RF source. Be
SURE to use an isolation transformer.

73 Zeno

[Doug66]

Everything points to the balun being bad, as it measures open. During restoration, the signal kept getting worse until what I have now.

I have a few junk tuners laying around. Could I use the balun out of one of them, or do I need the correct part for that tuner?

[old_coot88]

If this is a wafer type tuner, a not-uncommon problem was a stripped wafer, i.e., one of the wafers failing to turn with the shaft. Examine the wafers carefully while turning the shaft in both directions. Check for one that's sloppy on the shaft, or failing to turn altogether.

[zeno]

They all do the same thing except some have isolation
built in to them. Yours dont. Try one on it, cant hurt.
Check the wafer also as old coot says. We used to see
a lot of westinghouses with that. Used tooth picks & glue
to fix them.

73 Zeno

Originally Posted by Doug66

Everything points to the balun being bad, as it measures open. During restoration, the signal kept getting worse until what I have now.

I have a few junk tuners laying around. Could I use the balun out of one of them, or do I need the correct part for that tuner?

[old_coot88]

We used epoxy, after thorough de-greasing of the journal. Of course you gotta be super-certain it's in the correct position.